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< SeptOct 2001
	Skills
Kayak Ocean Surfing Finding the takeoff spot Kent Ford

My first attempts at kayak surfing were met by a good pummeling, probably because I didn’t understand how to line up for the best part of the incoming waves. It's a strategy game of choosing a wave, then figuring out how to line up and get the best ride. This takes a combination of positioning and timing to find the powerful part of the wave, called the pocket. This is where the curling whitewater meets the smooth part of the wave.

An important question to ask is, "Where do you take off on the wave?" The answer varies, but you're looking for the peak, since that is where the pocket will form first. The peak is the prime take-off spot. The problem is that the exact spot changes, as the peak shifts around depending upon swell direction and bottom topography. Paddle out, find a peak and find reference points on shore so you can come back to that spot quickly and then make small adjustments as the peak shifts. To help return to your favorite take-off spot after each ride, look for markers on the shore--chimneys, cliffs or trees--and use these to establish reference lines. Try to find something that gives you an exact line marker so you may return to the ideal take-off spot quickly after each surf. To identify where the waves have been breaking, you can also look for a white foam line from the previous wave.

Once you're sitting in the best take-off place, the next trick is getting on the wave. Catching a wave is a commitment, as it requires aggressive paddling to get your boat moving in order to get up to hull speed. Once you are gaining the wave, it will feel as if the wave is picking up the tail of your boat. Begin leaning forward to shift your weight down the face of the wave.

Quicken the pace of your strokes by taking shallow strokes. When sprinting to catch a wave, use a quicker windmill-type stroke and keep your boat running perpendicular to the wave. Even if you start too early, time your paddling so you reach top speed exactly when the top of the wave hits the stern of your boat. Then, remember to steer! If you're far from the break, drop into the wave and angle toward the break so you can tap more power of the pocket. If you drop in close to the peak, your first turn will take you down the line of the breaking wave; this first turn is called a bottom turn. It is your ticket to hours of enjoyable surfing.

Surf Safety
Pick a place to surf where you have no possibility of running into people playing in the same area. Be respectful and courteous to everyone you encounter. Kayakers irritate a lot of board surfers because they have an advantage and the ability to catch swells before they break. Realize the edge you have and don't take too much advantage of it. Share the waves. Kayakers can expand the sport by finding surf that requires more of a paddle to get to.

--Kent Ford is host and writer for several instructional videos, including the recently released "In the Surf." Find more tips at www.performancevideo.com.