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< July/August 2001
	Skills
How to Roll a Canoe Eric Bader

Outfitting
Before you try to roll your canoe, you must make your canoe "fit." If your canoe isn’t outfitted, practice your swimming as you will need it.

Outfit the canoe so you're securely attached to the boat, yet able to get out when you want to. This isn't easy, as each person has different methods of outfitting. The following is my favorite. I start with a foam saddle, about eight inches high. The back needs to be high enough to reach the thwart. Before gluing the saddle in, I take my canoe, saddle and a marker to the lake and paddle around to find where I want to place the saddle. Then it’s back to the shop for a big gluefest.

Install the D-rings for the thigh straps before gluing down the foam pedestal. Thigh strap position varies. I like mine high up on my thighs. Use four D-rings to attach your thigh straps to the canoe, with each leg using a different strap. The center D-rings are positioned straight down from high up on my thighs. The D-ring is usually parallel and up against the pedestal. I then attach the outside D-rings a few inches outside of my thighs, on the inside curve of the boat about three to four inches back from the center D-rings. Make sure the pedestal is long enough to glue its top back onto a thwart (the thwart makes a big difference in controlling wiggles). I then dish out some three-inch foam for kneepads, with the knees fitting in 2.5-inch-deep pockets. Comfort equals strength, so place them where you feel comfortable. Glue in a half-inch pad for the toes and then add ankle lifts (essential to comfort). Some boaters use toe blocks instead of ankle blocks for even more security—for me, however, toe blocks make my legs cramp and make it too hard to get out.

Install the thigh straps after you glue in all of your pieces. Make sure your thigh strap is adjustable and doesn’t slip. It should also release in an emergency. My favorite thigh straps use Velcro for adjustments (buckles either slip or bite so hard that they wear through the webbing).

Flotation
Flotation affects the ease of rolling. The less flotation, the easier it is to roll. A canoe without flotation will roll slowly, yet easily, as the boat sinks under you while you roll/swim over the boat. A lot of flotation makes the last part of the roll harder because your boat floats higher in the water—and you'll need to raise your body completely out of the water to get on top of the canoe.

How much flotation do you need? While learning, use less. After you get your roll down, increase it. Find the balance where you have a strong roll and as much flotation as possible. The more flotation, the less water you'll have when upright, which means more maneuverability. A Nolan Whitesell trick is to leave room in front of your seat so after you roll, you can use your paddle to bail the water out. I like flotation on the inside walls of my canoe, made of a two-inch-thick plank of foam. The plank is about 13 inches high and six feet long and runs along both inner sides. I recommend minicell or ethafoam. The foam floats the boat on its side. I've swamped my boat and then on a low brace, just like the roll, rolled it completely on edge so the water could flow out. Strap the foam in with D-rings and cord.

Body and Paddle Position
After outfitting your boat, the roll can be anti-climactic. Rolling a canoe is easy! Just follow these basic steps (described for rolling on the right side).

1) Flipping over
Always lean forward, tight to the deck in the tuck position. When on a river, wear your helmet and PFD to protect your body. Put your paddle parallel the canoe while in your tuck. Keep the body close to the boat.

2) Setting up the paddle
Once upside down in your tuck, wait until you can feel the air on your paddle blade or hands. Take a little stroke under the water to pull yourself toward your rolling side. This is just like the start of your roll—a little pull down to roll the canoe up. I do this by sticking my paddle out to the side, 30- to 45-degrees from the boat and pulling a little with my arms while staying in my tuck. Be aware that your paddle will be deep under water. Once you feel the boat move to the desired position, slice the paddle back up next to the boat. A canoe will float/lean toward one side or the other while upside-down. If you're trying to roll up on the side that is deep under the water, you won't feel the air on your hands. The little pull will help in this situation.

3) The sweep
Now you can sweep the paddle across the surface to position it perpendicular to the boat. I do this in a high-brace position, with my paddle out of the water and my lower hand across my face reaching for the surface (just starting to flip the paddle into the low-brace position). When the paddle is perpendicular to the boat, flip it over so your left hand is at your belly button, right hand is palm down, and your forehead is on the back of your hand. Your back should be arched backward, so your paddle will still be on the surface.

4) The snap
Once in position, all that's left is to bend over, keeping your forehead on the back of your right hand and your left hand at your belly button. Then do a massive body crunch with your whole body. It will happen anyway, but try to pull/roll the boat under you with your legs. Notice in the photos that I still have my forehead on the back of my right hand. Keep your head down by keeping your forehead on the paddle.

5) Recovery
Once you're almost upright, move your head over the canoe while sculling with your paddle for extra push and support. When moving your head and body over the boat, make sure you stay as close to the boat as possible to keep your center of gravity low. Your head and body need to move over the boat toward the front. Don't lean back to accomplish this.

—Eric Bader, owner of Boulder, Colo.'s Boulder Outdoor Center, has several first open canoe descents to his credit, including the Gore Canyon section of the Colorado River.