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Volume 29 • Issue No. 4 •
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Mar/Apr 2001

Features
Innuendos
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Innuendos
International Paddling Styles

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< Mar/Apr 2001
Innuendos
International Paddling Styles

Eugene Buchanan

Whether it’s food or other formalities, countries have their own distinct cultures. Unbeknownst to most, this culture also applies to kayaking. After calling upon our own travels and travails, and picking the brains of those who've crossed international borders more times that their stomachs care to remember, following is a sampling of international boating styles you might find if you venture abroad.

Russia
Be prepared for a structured, team-like approach to river running. No one will take their wetsuit off until camp chores are finished, and food will be divided equally down to the sugar cube. It's a microcosm of Soviet life: from each according to ability, to each according to need. Lifestyle-wise, they're an American Heart Association nightmare, living on pork fat, salt, vodka and nicotine while stressing out about running Class V rapids on homemade equipment in the middle of nowhere. River running in Russia has evolved much like wildlife in Australia, completely uninfluenced by outside forces. Lifejackets are made from soccer balls and wine bladders; boats from germ warfare suits and truck tarps; tents from parachutes; backpacks from old army cots; and frames reaped from the land. Since they run rivers to escape the day-to-day grind of Russian existence, don’t expect them to whine about such minor ailments as kidney stones and broken bones; having survived countless sieges, gulag marches and other hardships, they're tough as Siberian railroad spikes. They're also capable of carrying everything they need for a 30-day river trip on their backs. But they cut loose with the best of them, so bring a hearty liver and lungs--river-related folk songs and vodka are part of every campfire.

Germany
Three things define German boaters: 1) their roots in slalom; 2) their roots with the historic Alpine Kayak Club (AKC); and 3) the fact that have the most vacation time of any country in the world. The northern part of the country has stronger links to touring, with boaters in the south preferring whitewater. Led by Toni Prijon Jr., stalwart kayak company Prijon caters to both.

The whitewater faction is strong and independent, with the oldest active participants of any country in Europe. Munich hosted the first Olympic slalom competition in 1972, meaning an adherence to precise moves over happy-go-lucky free form. The AKC, the leading expedition whitewater club in the world, means they push Class V to the limit (evident in videos showing face-masked kayakers with walkie-talkies breaking ribs on first descents) and paddle with a damn-the-torpedoes mentality. The AKC advocates self-sufficiency, and the country's kayakers aren't afraid to rely on strength and a determined style. They also aren’t afraid to rely heavily on beer, bratwurst and bragging rights after the day's paddle. Ample vacation time means they ply their trade all over the world. "Instead of being weekend warriors," says Terry DelaQuadri, who imports Eskimo kayaks from Germany, "they get a month or more off a year, which leads to bigger expeditions." If you see a bunch of U.S. boaters in Chile, they’re most likely unemployed. The Germans you see are likely to be operating on gall bladders as soon as they return home.

Italy
Don’t go to Italy expecting to rent a kayak and easily walk out the door. The retailer will first make you take a series of tests to make sure you're qualified. Dating back to the days of Mussolini, Italian kayakers have a regimented learning style. You don’t just roll any which way that gets you up…you roll by the book. And unlike in the U.S., not just anyone can become an instructor. You have to have a license from the state and pass all sorts of tests beforehand. All this, of course, is probably a good thing--especially with the Class V drops of Corsica only a short ferry away.

Still, many feel Italians are the most laid-back paddlers in Europe, chilled to the core just like a fine white wine. And why shouldn’t they be? They finish each day to the best food and wine in the continent, and have some of the region's best whitewater concentrated in their boot-shaped doorstep. They are strong river runners, but tend not to brag or show it off. Many travel a lot, which seems odd considering the classic material they have in their front yard.

Czech Republic
One look at the World Cup slalom course on Prague's Trofa River--made from old tires--and it's easy to see that, like many Eastern Bloc countries, paddlers from the Czech Republic make do with very little equipment. But they do just fine, thank you, as evidenced by winning the Women's K-1 two Olympics in a row and their Bronze-medal performance in Sydney in C-2. To further cement their place in slalom, their recently formed neighbor, Slovakia, won the Silver and Bronze in C-1, and took the Gold in '96. Their precision in slalom carries over to innovation in design. Necky Kayaks founder Mike Neckar hails from the country and recently opened a new facility there, and Noah's Vladimir Vanha is generally credited with one of the first playboats, the Jeti. As for recreational paddlers, as long as something floats, they'll have a good time. Kayak builder Jan Kellner recently received an order from Czechs and when he asked them what color they wanted, they simply replied, "Oh, you have different colors?"

France
Whether it's climbing, skiing, paragliding or paddling, France is known for young wackos pushing the extreme. In paddling, this is illustrated by gonzo open-ocean crossings and a series of Class V races held throughout the country. But they didn’t get to extremedom without technique, which, like other European countries, has evolved from a background in slalom. At this year's Olympics, France took home the Silver and Bronze in Women's K-1, and Gold and Bronze in Men's C-1.

Sometimes considered aloof and disdaining, some maintain the French have been creating their own style by stealing bits from others for years. The French club scene is one of the strongest in Europe, with sites like Bourg San Maurice and the Rabioux attracting visitors from everywhere and producing many local legends. Paddlers such as Oliver Fuilette and the late Francios Cirotteau (above) have paved the way for whitewater originality, with Fuilette surfing big holes in little boats long before anyone else. Their out-there attitude is perhaps now best represented by Nico Chassing, a zany Frenchman who has kayaked the Zambezi more than anyone alive. Though its number of whitewater boaters pale to tourers who descend on such rivers as the Ardesh every summer (a laid-back booze cruise with scant regard for regulations or clothing), the country is a front-runner in paddling history and culture. And even with their extreme tendencies, you'll be hard pressed to find anyone who appreciates wine, bread and courtship more after a day's paddle.

United Kingdom
A classic British phrase heard in a pub might be, "Remember when we were on…" With these stories affectionately named the pomes, the area's lack of water and cold weather has bred a nation of talkers and tall tales. Simply put, they love talking about boating almost as much as they like doing it. However, the perseverance required to paddle in the UK has bred some of the greatest champions anywhere. The slim window for rivers (with the exception of Scottish creeks) has meant an evolution toward park-and-play paddling. In years past this meant slalom; now it’s rodeo boaters who congregate to swap stories and ends. Historically one of the oldest paddling nations, a lot of pioneering adventurers herald from the Monkey Isle, often with a unique British style and eccentric manner--Dave Mamby and Deb Pinniger are obvious examples. And, of course, Shaun Baker leads the extreme scene--on snow, off waterski jumps and, occasionally, on regular rivers. And don’t ever try to give them an Old Milwaukee Light after a day's paddle; you'll never live it down.

Austria/Switzerland
Many Austrian and Swiss paddlers have the same style as the southern Germans: big and bold, with a modicum of technical prowess. Often invaded by other paddling nations, each country's paddling hotspots are better known than its paddlers. Valleys such as the Inn and its tributaries have become seasonal summer homes for river bums across the continent. This, of course, does give them certain enviable characteristics. By playing hosts to others so often, both Austrians and Swiss enjoy a party and know how to throw one. Places like Bremergaten have set the level for many big Euro competitions and festivals. And unlike a serious rodeo in the U.S., over there it's all fun and games, with the party winner enjoying as much fame as the rodeo winner.

Spain
Any country whose national pastime is running with the bulls has to have a bit of a wild side. This is true of Spain's paddlers, who, despite a limited paddling history, have progressed a long way in a short time. Since they haven't been at it long, they tend to be reserved and quiet. But they still emit the same confidence on the water that it takes to stay in the street in front of a charging, 2,000-lb. bovine. And they're catching on quickly, so much so that this summer they'll host the World Rodeo Kayak Championships in downtown Sorte. The country is slowly becoming a popular paddling destination among Euros, with schools opening up that promise to put locals on a fast track to world prominence. Still, the country is quite localized, meaning its paddlers stay close to home. People do flock to the coast, but more for its beaches than boating. The coast offers good surf, making the country a world leader in the wave ski and beach-gawking scene.

South Africa
With the bone-crunching rapids of the Zambezi a vulture's flight away, South Africa breeds boaters with big-water cajones. This, of course, stems from a school-of-hard-knocks approach to paddling in a harsh environment long detached from what's "in" and "new" elsewhere in the world. When getting started in the early days, its paddlers could only rely on trickle-down information through magazines and TV. As a result, they made do with what they had, jumping on the paddling bandwagon with only half the information and equipment. Testament to their toughness are the likes of South African natives Steve Fisher and Corran Addison, whose paddling antics have made headlines across the Atlantic. Expect paddle-till-you-puke mentality--as illustrated by Fisher when he won the kayak downriver race at Chile's World Rafting Championships--and sometimes a blatant disregard for political correctness.

Canada
As the second largest country in the world, Canada has a vast amount of land, yet remarkably few inhabitants (one-tenth of the U.S.). It's no surprise, then, that the country boasts countless wilderness trips, and this is what makes Canadian paddlers unique. Canoe tripping, sea kayaking and whitewater paddling evolved from a means of survival in a wide-open land to a means of recreation. How do you pick out a Canadian paddler on the water? Aside from the red maple leaf you’re bound to find somewhere on their gear, it’s not easy. In general, they act on the water as they do on land. Unless they're favorite hockey team is losing, they’re not an aggressive people. If there's a line-up for a wave, they'll wait their turn. If you bump into them in the eddy, they’ll apologize for being in your way. Much like the Voyageurs of yesteryear, they’re not out to conquer a river, just experience it. But when the day’s over, you can be sure that they’ll join you at the pub for a Labatts, Kokanee or Molson. And if everyone would quiet down for a minute, you might even hear a Canadian paddling story (or at least an out-of-tune rendition of Oh Canada)…
--Ken Whiting

United States
We can hardly stereotype paddlers from other countries without picking on ourselves. Though our touring faction blends in admirably with anyone, our whitewater side stands out like Clinton's sex life. U.S. paddlers tend to be uneducated about other cultures, with a "We're the center of the universe mentality." We're not the most polite paddlers you’ll find on the water, and are likely to fight for our place in line, poach the last parking space at the put-in and put in less than our share when the tab comes at a Mexican restaurant. All this seems odd behavior considering we enjoy more free time and discretionary income than paddlers from most any other country. As for gear, we're anal about that, too. While others make do with what’s available, we need the best, even if it means buying (or trying to scam) a new boat and bent-shaft paddle every six months. Of course, the majority of the world's paddling gear is designed here, so who can blame us for wanting it. And reminders of it stare us in the face every time we see an SUV ad. Still, for all our downfalls, we probably have more high-end paddlers than any other country--and our attitudes often let others know it.

Costa Rica
Always on the lookout for strainers more than undercuts, Costa Rican paddlers are happy, aggressive, multi-disciplined and not afraid of hypothermia (they don’t know what it is). A pair of shorts and sprayskirt comprise their apparel, and they're used to paddling every day, all year. Most are young (20s) and therefore into the rodeo scene. Its older paddlers, a handful of whom have founded successful rafting companies, are into a river's biodiversity as much as its hydraulics. In a country with the highest percentage of national preserves in the world, everyone is knowledgeable of the forests they paddle through, and they're proud to share it with the rest of the world. Costa Ricans are at ease on steep creeks or big brash rivers like the Reventazon in flood, and they aren't used to limitations to access--as long as there's a bar at the take-out (remember, this is the land of "Pura Vida"). And if you're a guy, do yourself a favor by not venturing out on the dance floor when male Costa Ricans are present; their shoulder and torso shaking will leave you looking like Pee Wee Herman.

Peru
With rivers like the Tambopata, Urubamba, Apurimac, Colca and Cotahuasi all within its borders, it's no wonder Peruvian paddlers have evolved quickly into some of the continent's best expedition-style boaters. In a land of few roads and towering Dr. Seuss-like mountains, day trips are virtually unheard of, meaning planning and packing are as big a part of a trip as paddling. Far removed from the rest of the world, locals have had to carry out their expeditions on whatever second-hand equipment they can find, be it a leaky Udisco or modern-day Mirage. They're as good at dealing with expedition adversity as it gets, whether it's a flooding torrent pinning them in camp for days on end, a bite from a poisonous snake or a jaguar stalking camp. Naturally, they often have help dealing with all of this, in the form of chewing cocoa leaves and drinking pisco sours around the campfire.

Chile
Chile's paddlers have little reason to travel anywhere else, what with the Bio Bio, Futaleufu, Fuy and other rivers all within striking distance. Within their borders are majestic multi-day possibilities, incredible big-water day trips, and waterfall runs like the Seven Teacups that established the freefall trend well before California's Dry Meadow Creek hit the scene. To get to these runs, however, means a high tolerance for long, bouncy shuttles, and a map showing more than 37 degrees of latitude. With a stable government and economy, locals have the means to pursue the sport easier than paddlers from other South American countries, though often it's with second-hand equipment sold by paddlers visiting from north of the Ecuador. Like their Peruvian paddling pals to the north, they enjoy a good pisco sour after the day's run, and are as friendly and unassuming as paddlers anywhere.

Japan
With the precision and clinical analysis that goes into developing electronics, coupled with a structured society where failure is sometimes followed by suicide, it's no wonder that Japanese paddlers are making up for lost time. They apply the same 6 a.m.-to-10 p.m., six-day-a-week work ethic to paddling, resulting in an accelerated learning curve, which has yielded impressive results. Among the hierarchy are Noboru Kaimoto and Ishida Motoko, who won the bronze in women’s squirt at the 1999 world championships. As with everything they do, they all have the most advanced equipment possible and pay special attention to instruction and technique. Rodeos, slalom races and festivals are organized to the last detail, and local paddling magazines pride themselves on providing detailed information. Every paddler also owns every kayak video ever made.

Australia/New Zealand
Considering the country was founded as an outpost for prisoners, it's easy to see why Australia's paddlers have a hardened approach to the sport. They don’t complain when they swim, they don't flinch when bit by a croc, and they follow the mantra of the Fosters ad where someone's pulverized by a boulder and called a cry baby for saying "ouch!" (Of course, with such remote rivers as the North Johnstone and Franklin, no one would likely hear them anyway.) Aussie paddlers are risk-takers, and will jump into something head first even if they know it's over their head. They take the same attitude to partying as paddling. Be prepared for a boisterous bash fit for a rugby celebration around the campfire or in the bar, and get ready to buy when someone yells. "Your shout!" Look for a happy-go-lucky attitude that belies a "No worries, mate!" approach to any problem that might arise on the river.

Across the Tasman Sea in New Zealand are Australia's counterparts, the Kiwis, who, despite such touring hotbeds as Abel Tasman National Park, have taken a keener interest in whitewater. If the Aussies are risk-takers, the Kiwis are Evel Knievels--especially commercial raft guides who'll take clients down anything Down Under (as evidenced by the tunnels on the Shotover River). With countless creeks and rivers, New Zealand's two islands are a whitewater paradise, prompting the rise of such manufacturers as Blisstick and such world-class competitors as Mike Abbot, who stole the show at last year's first annual Zambezi Big Water Invitational. The country has come of age so quickly that it hosted the 1999 World Kayak Rodeo Championships, where local Paul Eames won second in OC-1. Though multi-day raft-support trips are rare, the sport's followers know more about helicopter shuttles than anyone, and they join the Aussies in adopting a fun-loving, "She'll be right, mate!" approach to daredevil paddling.


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