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< July / August 2000
	Features
Vista Grande! A scenic sampler of some of North America's most Picturesque waterways. compiled by Rick Hill and Tom Bie

Everything from wildflowers to wildlife to a fleeting rainbow after a summer storm can constitute scenic grandeur on a paddling trip. But while beauty may be in the eye of the bow-bound beholder, there is surely nothing like the sweeping, awe-inspiring, all-encompassing vista—those places on earth just begging for a panoramic camera. Many waterways have their own special beauty but this is a listing of those places where you can barely take it in, where your neck gets sore gazing up at your surroundings and it becomes difficult to keep your eyes on the water you're paddling—unless you're looking at a reflection of the surrounding peaks. So load up the kids and load up the camcorder, but don't forget the wide-angle lens.

Banff/Lake Louise/Jasper/Fernie

From the Bow River Valley west to Jasper National Park and south to the Elk River and Fernie, British Columbia, this Rockies-dominated chunk of Canada is a paddler's scenic dreamland come true. Want a quiet canoe paddle on Lake Louise or hundreds of other flatwater destinations in the region? No problem. How about a lazy Class I or II float down the Kananaskis or Athabaska River or a whitewater run down the Kicking Horse River? Practically any waterway in the region, from Cranbrook to Calgary, will place you under the spell and within viewing distance of the majestic Canadian Rockies. On the Bow River, you get the feeling of floating not past these awesome peaks but through them. In 1995, the United Nations named both Banff and Lake Louise parks as a World Heritage Site. One look at the scenery found here and it's easy to understand why.

Outfitters: Rocky Mountain Paddling Centre (800) 656-8288, Rocky Mountain Rafting Co. 1-888-518-RAFT

Grand Teton Natioinal Park

Whether it's canoeing on Jackson Lake or taking a scenic float on the upper Snake River, few places can compare to the raw beauty of the Teton Range. In truth, much of the view is due to what's not there: foothills. The allure of a paddle in Grand Teton National Park lies largely in the proximity of the water to the mountains—you can literally paddle to the base. Even on the Snake River, from Jackson Lake Dam to the town of Moose, you will feel as though you can reach out and touch the glaciers themselves.

Outfitters: Grand Teton Lodge Company (307) 543-2811; Jackson Hole Kayak School (800) 733-2471

Glacier National Park

The word "Flathead" is synonymous with beauty in this part of the country, whether you're referring to the lake or the river or the entire valley. The three forks of the Flathead River not only offer the type of spectacular scenery that defines northwest Montana, but each offers its own unique landscape, from deep, forested canyons to wide open meadows. The three forks flow between the Mission, Swan and Flathead mountain ranges and offer a variety of Class I to Class IV water, with continuous Class VI views. If whitewater's not your game, just head toward Kalispell and take a leisurely paddle on Flathead Lake or one of the dozens of other flatwater options in the area.

Outfitters: Glacier Raft Company

(800) 235-6781; Glacier Wilderness Guides (800) 521-RAFT

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

When discussing natural scenery, there's sometimes a bit of snobbishness put forth by residents of the West. But that's OK—it means fewer people tramping around the Midwest's favorite scenic places—like Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore along Lake Superior's southern edge. Climbing anywhere from 50 to 600 feet straight up from the lake's lapping waves, the 15 miles of sandstone cliffs present a spectacular pallet of colors, which pour down the rock face like spilled cans of paint. The official Lake Shore boundaries actually extend along 40 miles of coastline and include miles of sand beaches, small sea caves and arches, and some equally impressive towering sand dunes. You can dart out for a day paddle or take longer if you like and camp in the backcountry.

Outfitters: Northern Waters Adventures (906) 387-2323; Northwest Passage (800) RECREATE

Prince William Sound

With 15,000 square miles of prime wilderness paddling, Alaska's Prince William Sound—and its 3,500 miles of pristine shoreline—has more bays, inlets and passages to explore that perhaps any other sea kayak destination in the world. Choose from such sea kayaking hotspots as 580,000-acre Kenai Fiords National Park, with its spectacular Aialik Bay and Glacier; Harriman and College fiords, which pierce their way deep into the Chugach Mountains; or Blackstone Bay, an accessible, glacier-carved arm a short paddle from Whittier. Deeper into the Sound you'll find the monolithic Columbia Glacier, which dwarfs the state of Rhode Island. Wherever you go, expect animals as well as awe-inspiring vistas. On any given day you're as likely to see whales, seals and sea lions as eagles, brown bear and deer.

Outfitters: Alaska Kayak Paddlesport Outfitters (907) 522-7710; Alaska Wilderness Journeys (800) 349-0064

Tatshenshini-Alsek/Glacier Bay

Flowing from the Yukon Territory of Canada through the bowels of the Fairweather and St. Elias Range, the Tat-Alsek river system offers paddlers 180 miles of what may be the most jaw-dropping scenery on the continent. At a point not far downstream from the junction of the two rivers, you may count over a dozen glaciers in full view and if you make it all the way to Alsek Bay, you'll have the majestic 15,300-foot Mount Fairweather looming over your shoulder. For an even bigger glacier fix, once back at sea level head south to sea kayak Glacier Bay National Park, boasting 16 tidewater glaciers—including such classics as Riggs, McBride and Muir—and the most rapid measured glacier retreat in the world. In the first hour alone you'll discover why it was declared a national monument in 1925, a national park in 1980 and a World Heritage site in 1992.

Outfitters: Alaska Discovery, 800-586-1911; Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks, (907) 697-2257

Nahanni National Park

The South Nahanni River in general and Virginia Falls in particular combine to form the centerpiece of this captivating Canadian jewel. The canyons alone make the Nahanni River one of the most spectacular scenic destinations on earth, long popular with climbers and paddlers looking for the ultimate backdrop. A half dozen river sections offer the possibility for more panoramas than the eye can handle, with the Flat River also providing an excellent Class III to Class V section within Nahanni National Park. Spectacular side hikes in the Ragged Range like the Cirque of the Unclimbables add to the area's awesome stature.

Outfitters: Nahanni River Adventures,

(403) 668-3180; Nahanni Wilderness Adventures, (403) 637-3843

Acadia National Park

Exploring the waters around Maine's Mt. Desert Island is enjoyable for at least 100 different reasons, but the scenic grandeur of Cadillac Mountain and the glacier-carved Sand Beach/Otter Cliffs section of Acadia National Park is surely one of them. Cadillac is the highest point on the Eastern Seaboard, and its large collection of deciduous forests can draw a paddler's eye away even from Maine's spectacularly rugged coastline—no easy task. From Frenchman Bay to Blue Hill Bay, the view won't disappoint. Though scenic, the waters off the coast of Maine are cold and the currents can be difficult. Therefore, if your sea kayaking skills are limited, check into going with an outfitter. That way you can concentrate on more important things—like taking it all in and bringing home a few snapshots.

Outfitters: Coastal Kayaking Tours (800) 526-8615; National Park Sea Kayak Tours (207) 288-0342;

Acadia Outfitters (207) 288-8118

Grand Canyon National Park/

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

No list of scenic paddling destinations would be complete without including the granddaddy of them all—the Grand Canyon. But while many people realize the viewing pleasures of the mighty Colorado, few think of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, just upstream, as the flatwater equivalent in terms of scenery. We know, we know, it was created by a dam. But until the idea of draining Lake Powell gains more momentum, the portion of Glen Canyon not underwater should be one of your top canoeing or sea kayaking destinations. Hundreds of miles of shoreline means campsites are as easy to obtain as permits. A float through the Grand Canyon is still one of the most scenic trips on the planet, but if whitewater's not your thing, consider paddling you and your camera gear around Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

Outfitters: O.A.R.S.

(800) 346-6277, Action Whitewater Adventure (800) 453-1482

Middle Fork of the Salmon

Not only is the entire 100-mile stretch of the Middle Fork protected as a National Wild and Scenic River, but most of the deep canyon and rugged, forested mountains that surround it are part of the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness Area—the largest Wilderness Area in the Lower 48. It is sometimes difficult in North America to choose which type of scenery you wish to float through—the stark beauty of the desert Southwest or the lush alpine forests of the Northwest or Rockies. But with the Middle Fork, you don't have to choose. This river offers a little of both, with thick forest and snow-capped peaks giving way to drier, desert-like landscape as the river nears the Main Salmon. And if you get tired of taking in the surrounding scenery, just look down at the water—the Middle Fork of the Salmon is one of the cleanest, clearest rivers in the country.

Outfitters: ECHO (800) 652-ECHO; OARS (800) 346-6277.

Big Bend National Park

For sheer-walled beauty, few river trips can compare to that of the Rio Grande through Big Bend National Park. With canyons rising 1,800 feet overhead, the vistas of Big Bend rival both the Grand Canyon and Hell's Canyon for depth and viewing pleasure. This is also the place to paddle in the dead of winter, when freezing temperatures up north make those destinations out of the question. One of the more popular trips in Big Bend is the 17-mile stretch through Santa Elena Canyon, offering not only neck-craning views of the canyon walls, but also the pleasure of a wide spectrum of shoreline flora and fauna, from Cactus to cottonwood to kingfishers.

Outfitters: Big Bend River Tours

(800) 545-4240; Far Flung Adventures (800) 359-4138

Na Pali Coast

The north coast of Kauai is the quintessential Hawaiian kayak trip, packed with the sort of scenery that has made the islands famous. And there is no better way to view this scenery than from a sea kayak, paddling through sea caves or stopping to snorkel or beach comb along the way. The vistas from your kayak (usually a sit-on-top) will include sandy beaches, waterfalls, ancient ruins and spectacular sea cliffs shooting 3,000 feet up from shore. The most popular stretch to paddle runs 17 miles from Kee Beach to Polihale State Park and most people elect to camp at least a night or two along the way. If you go without an outfitter, however, you must reserve a spot to camp with Kauai Division of State Parks (808) 274-3444.

Outfitters: Kayak Kauai (800) 437-3507; Outfitters Kaua'I (808) 742-9667.