I've always looked at rivers like a smorgasbord: no reason to fill my plate with potato salad when there are 50 other items to choose from. Older, perhaps wiser, I now lean toward the McDonalds of rivers— those sacrificial lambs where easy access and splash-and-giggle difficulty lead to lots of boats on the water. Granted, other people lean that way too, but I'm OK with that. I don't have to hike, compress any vertebrae, or rattle the shocks off my old truck in order to enjoy these waterways. In 1998 alone, the total number of commercial rafters plying these rivers exceeded 1.5 million. Add to that the huge numbers of private paddlers (estimated between 10 and 15 percent of the commercial users), and the numbers become staggering. Are they too crowded? Perhaps. Pick your average weekend in July and these rivers will offer all the solitude of a Christmas trip to the mall. On the other hand, if you're looking for a good waterfight...
South Fork of the American River
Surging out of the Sierras west of Lake Tahoe, this most popular of California rivers is famous as the birthplace of the gold rush, where James Marshall discovered some nuggets in 1848 and started the wagons rolling. The gold now is found mostly in commercial outfitting and in the beauty of this classic Class III run below Chili Bar. "Meatgrinder is the first rapid below the dam but Troublemaker is probably a better viewing area," says Lindsay Clark, manager for Adventure Connection in Coloma. "That's where you like to see a lot of boats, so you can sit and watch the carnage. There's also Satan's Cesspool—where people get their picture taken." The South Fork is an easy one hour drive east along highway 50 from Sacramento to the outfitter bases outside of Placerville but Clark says the crowds don't seem to bother people. "Some people come during the week because the rates are cheaper," she says. "But the crowds definitely don't keep anybody away."
As for management, the El Dorado County Parks and Recreation Department works with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) to deal with issues affecting American River paddlers. Riparian home owners upset with the noise levels from rowdy weekend rafters once sought to shut down the river to boating to regain the peace and quiet they once enjoyed. Ultimately, El Dorado County intervened, enacted noise ordinances, and undertook an enforcement program that has mitigated the noise problems to an acceptable level.
Location: California
Sections: Chili Bar and the Gorge
Nearest Town: Coloma, Sacramento
Season: Year-round
1998 Commercial Figures: 77,000
Private Use: 32,000
Mgt. Agency: El Dorado County Parks and Recreation
Kern River
Located just 100 miles north of Los Angeles, Southern California's Kern River attracts rafters like Sunset Boulevard attracts party goers. For good reason. Called the Rio Bravo by Spanish explorers because it was so difficult to cross, the Kern offers more than 50 miles of Class III-V whitewater for paddlers of all persuasions. After turning off their cruise controls, visitors arrive for classic Mountain Dew-style California rafting, including 100-degree temperatures and clear, cold water.
Draining the western slopes of 14,495-foot Mt. Whitney, the Wild and Scenic Kern flows through two river-running hubs: Bakersfield, of the Rolling Stones' “Girl with Faraway Eyes” fame; and the whitewater Mecca of Kernville. Several sections are run commercially by five outfitters, with the majority of the river's 40,000 annual visitors coming from the city. Those looking to erase the nine-to-five stress of LA head to the 17-mile-long, Class V Forks of the Kern, which takes two to three days with an outfitter. Space on these trips is as tight as the canyon itself: the Forest Service only allows one commercial launch per day. Farther down is the 21-mile, Class III-V Upper Kern, which parallels the road, letting private parties and outfitters put in at will. "It's a great get-away for folks from the city," says Bill McGinnis of Whitewater Voyagers, California's largest outfitter. "You can pick and choose your put-ins depending on the flow and your group." Lake Isabella controls the runoff for the 18-mile Lower Kern, ensuring boatable flows all summer guaranteed to wash the makeup on soap opera stars right off.
Location: California
Sections: Forks, Upper and Lower
Nearest Town: Bakersfield, Kernville, Los Angeles
Season: April-August
1998 Commercial Figures: 40,000
Private Use: 4,000
Mgt. Agency: Sequoia National Forest
Deschutes River
Site of a famous railway war just after the turn of the century, Oregon's desert delight flows through some very un-Oregon type terrain, tumbling from the foothills near Bend and fed by several rivers running east from Mt. Hood. Many outfitters and private river runners storm the Deschutes during the summer months from nearby Portland and Eugene. "Saturdays during July and August are absurd," says Kent Wickham, of Ouzel Outfitters in Bend. "Frankly, we encourage people to go elsewhere, like the McKenzie or the North Umpqua. We try not to go there on Saturday at all." Luckily the Deschutes is a big river, and can accommodate many a rain-soaked resident heading over from the western side of the Cascades. The most popular section of river is the Class III, 50-mile stretch above Class VI Sherars Falls, particularly the 16 miles above and below the town of Maupin. Whitehorse and Boxcar are the most famous rapids, with Whitehorse offering the opportunity to pinball from one poorly-placed boulder to the next. In 1995, the BLM instituted a limit on overall summer use by outfitters but left private use, which is more difficult to manage, unregulated. This obviously angered some outfitters but most seem to agree that numbers have tapered off in recent years. The Lower Deschutes River Guide will be published next year by the BLM and will include advice on river etiquette.
Location: Oregon
Section: Section 2, near Maupin
Nearest Town: Maupin, Bend
Season: Year-round
1998 Commercial Figures: 87,908 (141,000 if all sections are included)
Private use: numbers reflect 70 percent private use
Mgt. Agency: BLM Prineville
Wenatchee River
Like Oregon's Deschutes River, Washington's Wenatchee offers those living in the rain-drenched valleys west of the Cascades an opportunity to easily get away to a slice of Northwest desert. Maybe too easily. In Western Whitewater,
the authors write, "The Lower Wenatchee River has a lot in common with Los Angeles: great weather, freeways, big crowds
and roller coaster rapids right out of Disneyland." During a commercial trip on the Wenatchee in the mid 1980s, the state police closed off a large parking area without warning that was being used by commercial outfitters. In the melee that followed, hundreds of passengers searched the river corridor for their outfitters, as the outfitters themselves scrambled frantically to
find another way to get on the river. Since then, boaters' needs have been accommodated for with the helpful hand of city planners, state regulators and federal land managers. The Wenatchee now has excellent access facilities at a number
of strategic locations along the highway, which follows the river
for most of the run. The lower Wenatchee sees almost 20,000
user days a year, many on a hall pass from Seattle, accounting
for almost half of the commercial rafting done in the state.
Luckily, large flows and a long season help disperse the masses.
Location: Washington
Section: Leavenworth to Cashmere
Nearest Towns: Leavenworth, Peshastin, Cashmere
Season: May - August
1998 Commercial Figures: 8,795
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: Wenatchee National Forest
Rio Grande River
The second longest river in the country, the Rio Grande is formed in the San Juan Mountains of Southern Colorado and flows almost 1,900 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. Its most famous section consists of the Class IV runs through New Mexico's Taos Box, but the most popular section is the Racecourse Run below
Pilar, where many commercial outfitters bring their guests through a five-mile section of fairly continuous Class III rapids. "This company alone takes 7,000-9,000 people down when the
water is good," says Jennifer O'Conner, of New Wave Rafting.
"The growth is causing a big conflict between Pilar Village residents and commercial rafters." Indeed, the stretch of river that runs through Pilar is covered on both sides by private property
owners, many of whom don't care much for hollerin' rafters.
State highway 68 follows this section for much of its length, allowing good access and scouting. Advanced kayakers often
run the Upper Box, a Class V section only accessible by trail that didn't see its first successful raft run until 1986. A portion of the Rio Grande forms the famous Rio Grande Gorge, an original member of the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System.
Location: New Mexico
Section: Race Course
Nearest Town: Pilar
Season: April - July
1998 Commercial Figures: 33,500
Private Use: about 10-15%
Mgt. Agency: Bureau of Land Management
Arkansas River
Though much of the "Ark" rolls slowly along through prairie country, the whitewater section of the upper river east of Denver is generally considered to be America's and the world's most popular paddling destination, with more than 60 outfitters and
over a quarter of a million visitors annually. The Arkansas' sheer numbers demand a unique method of management. Here, highways practically connect put-ins and take-outs and most development activities took place long before rafting ever blew onto the scene. Plus, along sections such as the Royal Gorge, steep-walled canyons shield the river from random access and development. With limited access points and thousands of rafters, the key to successful management has been to provide safe entrances and exits on and off highways, ample parking and bathroom facilities, and staggered launch times to balance out the impact of so many rafts.
"We get a lot of visitors from Texas but Colorado is still our number one draw," says Doug Bascom, of Salida's River Runners.
"It can be crowded but people come for the good water and
they realize that's what everyone else is here for too." According to the Colorado River Outfitters Association, the 1998 Economic Impact Report shows that the Arkansas River generated
$55.5 million in regional economic impact and that average
annual growth since 1988 has been a staggering 12.5 percent.
The most popular stretch of the Arkansas is the Class II-III
20-mile run through Brown's Canyon, and the Texas Creek/Three Rock section downstream from Salida, site of the annual FIBArk whitewater festival. For experts, try Class V Pine Creek Rapids, a boulder-choked maelstrom in between the town of Granite and Scott's Bridge, or the infamous Numbers stretch—named for the volume of rapids, not the crowds you find downstream.
Location: Colorado
Sections: The Numbers, Browns Canyon and Royal Gorge
Nearest Towns: Buena Vista, Salida, Colorado Springs
Season: May - September
1998 Commercial Figures: 250,098
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area
Colorado River
Though the Grand Canyon may receive the most publicity and attention of the many miles of Colorado, it doesn't receive the most use. The upper Colorado, in the state of Colorado, runs through two major, gorgeous canyons—Gore and Glenwood. Gore Canyon is a technical, five-mile run, and is flowing free to this day only because President Roosevelt felt a railroad belonged there over a dam. Site of the annual Gore Canyon Whitewater Race, this section holds at least a half-dozen Class V rapids and is only run by a few commercial outfitters. Most trips start just downstream, at the Pumphouse Run, and continue 15 miles down to State Bridge. This is a heavily permitted section and is the second most popular in the state, after Brown's Canyon on the Arkansas. Many river revelers end their day at State Bridge for a burger, beer and waterside concerts.
One of the more remarkable access systems is found along Colorado's Glenwood Canyon section. Here, I-70 flows through a narrow canyon, through twin tunnels, and alongside towering red rock cliffs. Known as the Glenwood Canyon I-70 Project, the highway is at once an engineering masterpiece and an architectural delight. Its sculpted curves flow through the canyon as its roadbed floats above the canyon floor on towering, cylindrical pillars. Best yet, a bike path parallels the entire waterway, from Class IV-V Barrel Springs to the Class III Shoshone run, making in-line or bike shuttles a snap.
During the planning stages of the Glenwood Canyon I-70 Project, outfitters pooled their input with teams of transportation experts and gained access areas that blend seamlessly with the highway infrastructure. Even management of paddling activities requires cooperation as the Colorado Department of Transportation manages the access points and the White River National Forest Eagle Ranger District monitors river activity. When the highway shuttle route, access points, and staggered commercial launch times are combined into one river management system it becomes no wonder that Glenwood Canyon
can accommodate so many paddlers.
Location: Colorado
Section: Glenwood Canyon, Gore Canyon and State Bridge
Nearest Town: Glenwood Springs, Kremmling
Season: June - September
1998 Commercial Figures: 100,131
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: BLM Kremmling, Glenwood Springs
Snake River
The eight-mile, West Table to Sheep Gulch section of the Snake, located just south of Jackson Hole, Wyo., sees over 100,000 outfitted user days a year. Add to that the estimated 37,000 private users and suddenly there's nearly 140,000 river lovers crammed into an eight-mile section of water. Perhaps nobody on the river can judge numbers better than the commercial photographers shooting every boat that passes by. "I shot 30 rolls a day for weeks on end," says John Layshock, of Jackson's Float-o-graphs. "It was unreal." Though the Snake is the farthest from a major population center of any of the rivers listed here, it still sees good numbers of private rafters make the five-hour drive from Salt Lake City, Utah, or the two-hour drive from Idaho Falls, Idaho. Still, the number one reason for big numbers on the Snake is the perfect mix of Class II-III water and the millions of tourists who pass through annually on their way to Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. Lunch Counter is by far the most famous rapid on the river, serving as both perfect surf wave and convenient spot for tourists to get their photo taken. It's also been the site of many a collision between raft and kayak, as both vie for precious time at "The Counter." Meanwhile, management officials continue to work as counters of their own, tallying up increasing user days. "We haven't limited use yet," says Jan Langerman, of the Bridger Teton National Forest. "But we are trying to schedule use to better accommodate everyone."
Location: NW Wyoming
Section: Snake River Canyon
Nearest Towns: Jackson Hole, Idaho Falls
Season: May - September
1998 Commercial Figures: 109,000
Private Use: 37,000
Mgt. Agency: Bridger Teton National Forest
Lehigh River
As the chosen destination for residents of the quiet hamlets of New York City and Philadelphia, the Lehigh River has long been known to see some use. Yet the popular 25-mile stretch from White Haven to Jim Thorpe (named after the legendary Olympic athlete and football All-American buried there) remains one of the East's most scenic river corridors. A major highlight is the woodsy wilderness of Lehigh Gorge State Park, where the canyon reaches nearly 1,000 feet as it slices through the Poconos. A ride down the Lehigh usually consists of mellow Class II-III water, but that largely depends on whatever's flowing out from under Francis Walter Dam. This is essentially an early-spring river for rafters, with March, April and May being the peak months of operation. After that, river flows—notoriously unreliable to begin with—start to get pretty shaky. Canoeists, however, can run it much later in the year. There are some special release days in the fall when the river can also be rafted, often with less crowded circumstances than those found earlier in the season. Autumn on the Lehigh also includes the added bonus of checking out fall colors through the gorge.
Location: Pennsylvania
Section: Upper and Lower Gorges
Nearest Towns: White Haven, Jim Thorpe
Season: April to early June, plus summer water releases
1998 Commercial Figures: 35,172
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: Hickory Run State Park
Youghiogheny River
The Lehigh and Yough are so close to the East Coast megalopolis that it's amazing these rivers still harbor some of their primordial charm. Yet not only does the Yough still have charm, but the upper section offers some of the most difficult commercially rafted water in the country. With more than 20 Class IV-V rapids, the Upper Yough offers a challenge to even the most experienced boaters. The Lower Yough consists of much easier rapids and, being so close to major metropolitan areas, can be extraordinarily crowded. "It's the most popular spot in the East," says Stuart Van Nosdeln, President of Youghiogheny Outfitters. "It's maxed out on Saturdays but during the week it's not as bad. They stagger the launches pretty good." A maximum of 60 inflatable private boats is allowed to launch per hour (that's right, per hour), with a maximum of 200 hard boats per day. The eight-mile section from Ohiopyle Falls to Bruner Run sees as many as 100,000 rafters per season, many of whom just came down for the day. An ideal stretch for intermediate to advanced kayakers, the Lower Youghiogheny serves up about as much wilderness as can be expected considering its location. The river also experiences a lengthy season, reaping the benefits of a dam-controlled release.
Location: Pennsylvania
Section: Lower Yough (Youghiogheny Falls to Bruner Run)
Nearest Town: Ohiopyle
Season: All summer
1998 Commercial Figures: 109,983
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: Ohiopyle State Park
Nantahala River
It seems you rarely hear the word Nantahala without the words "Outdoor Center" attached to it. Actually, NOC is but one of several outfitters operating on Nantahala National Forest permits. The popularity of this river probably led, at least in part, to it becoming one of the first rivers with a Recreation Fee Demo Program. Last summer was the third year of the program, which allows river runners to buy a daily bracelet for $1 a day or a season pass for $5. Nantahala National Forest supervisors, recognizing the need for restrictions, have also established a cap system which limits use on the river during peak days. As the number of river runners continues to grow, management agencies are becoming less motivated to improve access points and are leaning instead toward this method of limiting the number of people. While this sounds appealing on the surface, it is just the first domino in a chain of inevitable events. If the number of users don't go down, they'll simply go elsewhere. Limit the number of people on the New, and you'll increase the number of people on other West Virginia rivers. Limit the number of people on the Nantahala, and people may just head for another state. In the areas where limited large access areas exist, staggered commercial launch times and cooperation between outfitters and management agencies has often worked smoothly.
Location: North Carolina
Section: Nantahala Gorge Sections I-IV
Nearest Town: Bryson City, Asheville
Season: March - November
1998 Figures: 219,642
Private Use: 25,000
Mgt Agency: USFS (Nantahala NF)
New/Gauley Rivers
These two rivers have come to define West Virginia as the whitewater capital of the East, together offering over a dozen separate sections with everything from calm flatwater to serious Class V. Despite heavy use, the volume and landscape of these rivers seem to absorb the numbers rather nicely. "The New River Gorge is an environmental region that promotes rapid recovery between rafting seasons," says West Virginia Professional River Outfitters President Len Hanger. "Rain, humidity and great growing conditions help quickly reclaim areas damaged by human traffic." The New has some of the biggest whitewater in the east, with a gorge of Western-like proportions that drops nearly 20 feet per mile between its 1,400-foot walls. Designated a National River by Congress in 1978, the New is one of the few rivers in the east where paddlers can enjoy an overnight trip in relative solitude. Unlike the Gauley, the season on the New is long, from March through November. The Gauley is certainly popular, drawing hundreds of rafters from all over the world during its release season in late summer and fall. One weekend during this time is dedicated to Gauleyfest, a Class VI party deemed unrunnable by some boaters’ standards. Yet the river really sees heavy traffic only during this famous, six-week, carnival-like rampage. Nevertheless, the season on the 26-mile, 100-rapid stretch below Summersville Dam makes up for in numbers what it lacks in length. Autumn releases out of the giant tubes of Summersville Reservoir attract paddlers like moths to a lightbulb, drawing over 65,000 river runners to the sight in 1998.
Location: West Virginia
Section: New River Gorge/Upper and Lower Gauley
Nearest Town: Fayetteville, Hico, Charleston
Season: April - October
1998 Commercial Figures: 223,860 total (65,089 Gauley, 158,771 New)
Private Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: (DNR)
Ocoee River
The Ocoee River's 24 outfitters hosted more than 200,000 commercial rafters in 1998. Add to that the tens of thousands of private boaters that plied its waters and you can see how a McDonalds' drive-through starts to look strangely similar to the line of kayakers awaiting a shot at Ocoee's Hell Hole. Three management agencies pool their efforts here under an umbrella system known as The Ocoee River Management Plan. Under this plan, the Tennessee Valley Authority, TDEC and the National Forest Service dovetail their individual duties in order to achieve a relatively seamless scheme of management. The state (TDEC) does the day-to-day management at the put-in (taking census counts, checking gear, and providing emergency medical response); the National Forest Service monitors the permitting process for special events (such as the US Team Trials); and the TVA supplies the water. Then, to make sure the bugs are worked out on an annual basis, all three entities get together a couple of times a year and examine their feats or follies. Results have included capping river use at 4,000 people per day, which is currently imposed only on Memorial Day and the 4th of July. The Ocoee hosted the 1996 Olympic whitewater events, but offers even non-Olympians continuous Class III-IV water throughout an extended season. The river provides some of the finest play spots in the country for those willing to wait their turn—and of course, great burgers and dancing at Grumpy's.
Location: Tennessee
Section: Ocoee Dam 2 to its Powerhouse
Nearest Town: Cleveland, Ocoee, Copperhill, Rock Island
Season: March - November, release dependent
1998 Commercial Figures: 220,000
Public Use: N/A
Mgt. Agency: Cherokee National Forest
Kennebec River
When low summer flows or bone-chilling temperatures
get you down on other eastern rivers, Maine's Kennebec River provides a robust tonic for your soul. According to the folks at New England Whitewater Center, the Kennebec's dam-controlled releases can easily reach 6,000 cfs and 75 degrees on later
summer days, keeping the Kennebec big, bold, and warm throughout the season.
One of the northeast's best known rivers, the whitewater section of the Kennebec starts at the base of George Harris Station Dam—the main power source for Boston. On any given summer day, it's not unusual to find a trickle of water emanating from the base of the dam upon your early morning arrival, which changes quickly by mid-morning. As Bostonians start to crank up their air conditioners, office lights and computers, the call for power translates into big releases. In a matter of minutes, the first four to six miles of river below the dam transform from small pools and gentle riffles into a cavalcade of powerful Class III-IV rapids. With towering waves and big curlers like "Magic Falls," there are plenty of big splashes for commercial rafters, as well as enough playspots to keep playboaters entertained. While much of this activity takes place within the confines of privately owned lands, Maine Power, the owner/operator of the George Harris Station, permits travel on and across its property in order to make river running possible.
Location: Maine
Section: George Harris Station Dam to Carry Brook
Nearest Town: The Forks
Season: All summer
1998 Commercial Figures: 50,583
1998 Private Use: 8,331
Mgt. Agency: Central Maine Power Company
