 Exploring Ecuador
When Spanish conquistador Francisco de Orellana first saw the Amazon River, he came through this valley after leaving Quito and crossing the Andes. He wasn't a kayaker, but you can rest assured that if he were he would have been a little tardy reporting back to the Queen. The blue morpho butterfly danced and flitted around Mark’s white helmet, its iridescent wings flashing in the sunshine. Flashing just as brilliantly was a huge waterfall cascading into the river nearby. Mark wasn’t paying attention to either. He was concentrating on something downstream: the thundering Tierra del Gigantes (Land of the Giants) rapid, spitting mist up into the jungle-lined basalt canyon. Mark gave the rapid one last look, turned to the other kayakers and yelled, hasta pronto (see you soon). Dipping his paddle into the lower Rio Misahualli, he ferried out into the main flow and found his line to the left of a large triangle-shaped rock. A second later, he disappeared into a maelstrom of whitewater. So it goes in Ecuador, one of the newest world-class playgrounds for kayakers. With mountains like 20,702-foot Chimborazo and abundant Amazon rainfall, the country is loaded with gradient and water, providing the core ingredients for a classic whitewater vacation. Pioneered only recently, scores of streams course down the Andes into the Amazon basin, offering everything from small technical runs similar to California’s Sierra Nevada to large-volume jungle rivers unique to South America. "It’s a candy jar down here," says Don Beveridge, 32, who has guided kayak trips in Ecuador for four years. "Ecuador has wonderful topography. It’s only the size of Colorado, but goes from nearly 21,000 feet in the center down to sea level on the Pacific and nearly that on the Amazon side. I’ve never been anywhere where there was so much good boating in such a close area." After our run on the Misahualli, our group of seven returned to a rustic lodge where we nursed a few cervezas, dipped chips in salsa and watched blankets of mist float through the cloud forest. Even though we had just finished one of the best rivers any of us had ever paddled, Beveridge and Small World Adventures (SWA) owner Larry Vermeeren continued to enlighten us with stories about Ecuadorian rivers. The Misahualli, we learned, is just the tip of the iceberg. Beveridge said his favorite is the Quijos, which tumbles through a valley far below the town of Baeza, where SWA bases many of its trips. "The Quijos alone has five different sections that offer everything from steep creeks to large-volume waves," he said, gesturing with a bottle of Ecuadorian lager. "And there are countless other rivers like it not far away. Better still, the people are friendly and helpful." The beer-waving Beveridge was quickly interrupted by Vermeeren, who had his own thoughts to share. "I like the east side of the Andes because it only contains 10 percent of Ecuador's population," he said. "You have your pick of incredible boating in a relatively small area. Within an hour or so, you can choose from about two dozen wonderful runs on eight rivers. It all depends on what you feel like doing that day and, of course, how the rivers are behaving." On our trip, we sampled seven different sections of whitewater is as many days, from the Misahualli and Oyachachi to various sections of the Quijos and Cosanga. Along the way, we ran into other groups of kayakers--some private some guided--with eyes equally as large as ours. Some, like us, were down for a week while others had put work and family aside and come for months. No matter our time frames, we all shared awe for the country and its kayaking. For those wishing to explore one of the world's newest whitewater playgrounds, here's a blow-by-blow rundown on the country's main boating regions and their respective rivers.
Rio Quijos Valley
At 6,000 feet, this part of Ecuador has a special feel — the water and air are cooler than in lower-elevation parts of Ecuador, and there are fewer bugs and less humidity. When Spanish conquistador Francisco de Orellana first saw the Amazon River, he came through this valley after leaving Quito and crossing the Andes. He wasn't a kayaker, but you can rest assured that if he were he would have been a little tardy reporting back to the Queen. Rio Quijos, Class III-V The Quijos starts out technical and steep and quickly grows in size as feeder streams pour in out of the Amazon. The majority of its runs are located upstream of 475-foot San Rafael Falls, the highest waterfall in the country. The river's lowest run starts a few miles below the falls and involves a two-hour walk for a three-day Class III-IV wilderness run. In all, the river offers about 100 miles of whitewater. All of the river's runs have good access, except the headwaters (Class IV-V) which involves a nine-hour, machete-wielding walk into the wilds of the Andes. "Don and I did the first and probably only descent of it two years ago," says Vermeeren.. Most of the bigger-volume sections below the confluence of the Rio Cosanga have great play spots and are pool/drop in nature. Vermeeren likes the Quijos area so much that he recently built his company’s lodge right beside it, just east of the town of Baeza. Rio Papallacta, Class IV-V The upper section of the Rio Papallacta, above Cuyaja, is usually too low to be much fun (although some swear by it for low-volume Class V creeking) or so high that it is too scary even for big-water boaters. Rarely, it seems, does its flow fall in the perfect medium range. If you decide to tackle its upper reaches, note that just above the put-in is the Papallacta hotsprings and lodge, offering great views of snowy volcanoes and gourmet food. The lower run is a great Class V day trip, but it is steep and technical. The rapids are continuous and steep; if you are unfamiliar with the run, plan on lots of scouting. Rio Cosanga, Class III-IV+ This river is south of Baeza on the way to the jungle town of Tena. It’s best to catch it when it is flowing between 400 and 1,800 cfs. Vermeeren and his crew have kayaked three runs on this river, including a hard-to-find section just above the town of Cosanga. The lowest and hardest section of the river starts off with a bang, with the most difficult rapids coming in the run's first half mile. As with most rivers in the area, there is also the possibility of another run higher up the drainage Rio Oyacachi, Class III+-VI This river flows into the Quijos from the west and is a continuous, technical, clear-water run. Even when the Quijos is a muddy mess, this stream was remains pristine — probably because its watershed remains relatively untouched. It can be boated from 200 to 2,000 cfs. The entire run from the town of Oyacachi was first done (and probably not repeated yet) by Beveridge, Adam Carter and Vermeeren in 1997. This is a very remote and difficult four-day run starting high in the Andes and ending up at the Rio Quijos. The normal run is a fun Class IV+ section above the confluence of the Rio Quijos. It has beautiful, clear water with big, granite rocks and continuous technical rapids. Other creeks in the area also have been boated, but they are small, have poor access and are only runnable when there is "just the right amount of rain." Quijos Valley to Tena Rio Jondachi, Class IV-V Running out of the Macaw mountains off the flanks of the Sumaco volcano, the Jondachi offers continuous, creek-like kayaking. It has two sections divided by a bridge. The upper section is more difficult of the two. Though both sections have a remote feeling, the lower portion, says Vermeeren, is in a world of its own. This was the first Ecuadorian river Vermeeren ran when he arrived in the country in February 1994. "I couldn’t find anyone else to boat with," he says. "The only other kayaker I knew left the day after I arrived, so I ran it anyway and instantly became hooked on Ecuador. Halfway down, I began plans to phase out running trips in Chile and begin offering them in Ecuador." Rio Hollin, Class III-IV+ The Rio Hollin starts out small with a creeky feel, but it can be a raging torrent by the end of the two-day trip if it's raining. Be prepared for water levels of all walks, and don’t be lulled by the river's initial creekiness. Though the run doesn’t have many places to camp, the ones available are beautiful, offering everything you would expect from a jungle campsite. Most campsites are close to the water, so if it rains be prepared to retreat to the rainforest to escape high water. Above the put-in are a few waterfalls that have been run occasionally, but most paddlers stick to the tried and true section. The run's highlights include a 10-foot waterfall and the chance to paddle a Class IV rapid through a cave. Tena/Baņos Area If you're looking for hot weather and warm water, this is the area for you. The rivers here fan out around town and the availability of local transport makes the Tena/Baņos area the country's most popular region for kayaking. Rio Misahualli, Class II-IV The upper runs on the "Meesh" are steep, tight, boulder-choked and technical--you need to have your wits about you to tackle them. You can boat above the end of the road but it is a horribly muddy walk for the same paddling you get below. Between the take-out for the upper runs and the town of Tena is a Class II run that makes a nice warm-up. Below Tena, the Rio Hollin joins the Misahualli and the run becomes a Class IV big-water, pool-drop river with lots of playing, wonderful rain forest and one tricky portage. Depending on where you put in, the river offers boatable flows of between 200 and 7,000 cfs. Rio Jatunactu, Class III As with your first glance of 19,347-foot Cotopaxi outside Quito, your first impression of the Class III Jatunactu is that it is big. And it is--it's one of the largest-volume rivers you're likely to paddle in Ecuador. Catch it at high flows and it will take on a Grand Canyon-like feel. But don't be alarmed by its size; the rapids are spaced out and most have very clear channels. And the river's beauty matches its size, with great views of the rainforest, Andes and riverside villages. Rio Anzu, Class II-IV The upper portion of the Rio Anzu is hard to find, but when you do you'll be rewarded with a great Class IV paddle. This river gets easier the lower down you go, with the lowest run offering a few miles of Class II before mellowing out and joining the Alto Napo near Puerto Napo. The river usually runs clear, with boatable flows ranging between 500 and 2,500 cfs. Rio Topo, Class IV-V This run is closer to Banos than Tena and offers a long day of powerful, technical rapids. It was first run by Jeff Pflueger and Gynner Coronel and has since emerged as one of Ecuador's classics. But pay attention to flows. If it looks high from the take-out bridge don't bother driving up to the put-in; you'll never make it on the muddy road. And if you do venture there, take someone else's vehicle; the road to the put-in is one of the worst shuttle roads in the country. Rio Pastaza, Class III-V You can see much of this run from the road. The river is big and pushy, and the rapids are powerful with plenty of big holes. Even the stretches between the rapids are exciting because the river is cruising at a fast clip. Unfortunately, the Pastaza is dirty from silt and pollution, keeping it from being a true classic. Santo Domingo Area Located only a three-hour drive west of Quito, this is the most commonly rafted area of the country. Most of the companies offering trips in the Santa Domingo area are based in Quito. Rio Blanco, Class III+ Local raft guides love this run for its great bird and wildlife. The river is straightforward with kilometer-long wave trains at higher water. After the confluence with the Toachi it becomes more pool-drop and contains more rapids. The upper put-in is near the town of San Miguell de los Bancos, with several access points available below the river's confluence with the Toachi. Rio Toachi, Class III-V The higher you go on this cloud forest river, the harder and more technical the runs become. The water quality deteriorates somewhat below the town of Santa Domingo, but even this section boasts several fun rapids. The most common run is through a canyon called Sapo (Frog) Gorge. Rio Caoni, Class II+ This is a rocky warm-water run with good access and easy rapids. It is a good place for beginners since the flow is usually low and the environment so inviting. Macas Area This area, located south of Tena, is more out-of-the-way than Ecuador's other river offerings, but it is well worth the traveling time. The weather is hot and humid, the water warm and the scenery beautiful. Rio Upano, Class III-IV The normal run starts near Macas and is usually done in four to six days. With planning, you can run sections of this big-volume river as day trips. Warm water and a spectacular gorge are the river's main attractions, as are the Shuar Indians—once headhunters—who still live in the region. You're likely to see them paddling homemade craft as you make your way through the waterfall-lined gorge. The section above Macas is more difficult and suitable only for kayaks. A
Look at Larry Vermeeren ·Small World Adventure offers nine-day kayaking trips to Ecuador ($1,370, including kayak rental). For more information, contact SWA at P.O. Box 3214, Crested Butte, Colo., 81224; (800) 585-2925; www.bewellnet.com/users/~kayakswa . Endless River Adventures offers eight-day paddling trips ($1,295) and a 12-day adventure ($1,695). For more information, contact Endless River Adventures, P.O. Box 246, Bryson City, N.C., 28713; (704) 488-6199; www.endlessriveradventures.com . Yacu Amu Rafting offers customized kayaking and rafting trips in Ecuador. For more information, contact Steve Nomchong, Yacu Amu Rafting, Amazonas N24-03 Y Presidente Wilson, Quito, Ecuador; yacuamu@rafting.com.ec www.ecua.net.ec/yacuamu . River Odysseys West offers 11-day trips to the Rio Upano ($1,895). For more information, contact R.O.W., P.O. Box 579-BU, Coeur d'Alene, ID 83816; (800) 451-6034. · Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) offers paddling trips to Ecuador through its in-house adventure travel program. For more information, contact NOC, 13077 Hwy 19 W., Bryson City, NC 28713; (704) 488-2175; adtrav@noc.com; www.nocweb.com . For help with private trips and/or custom itineraries, contact Gynner Coronel at Rios Ecuador, P.O. Box 17-07-9762, Quito, Ecuador; 593-2-588-264 (phone), 593-6-887-438 (fax), info@riosecuador.com or rios@uio.satnet.net. River
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