Five Adirondack Canoeing Classics

Imagine canoeing down a narrow river channel on a warm June morning, the canoe gliding through the water without a sound. As you round each bend, a new sight presents itself--a beaver swimming with a branch for his dam, a family of wood ducks scurrying out of the way. You surprise deer, otter and other wildlife along the bank until you reach your destination, a rustic lean-to miles from the nearest road. Many people might imagine this scene occurring in the Rocky Mountains or the woods of Canada. Very few envision it happening in New York State.

In 1885, a vast tract of northeastern forest was set aside by the New York State Legislature, creating one of the biggest parks in the country. Today Adirondack Park encompasses more than six million acres, with hundreds of miles of easy-to-access rivers and lake chains awaiting canoeists. Here are five classics:

The Kunjamuk

The Kunjamuk offers an excellent flatwater canoe trip, and is only an hour's drive from the Capital District. Located just northeast of Speculator and its junction with the Sacandaga River at Kunjamuk Bay, the Kunjamuk makes an excellent day trip, although it is possible to enjoy an overnight stay as well. The best way to enjoy the Kunjamuk area is to put in at Speculator near the Fire Department (look for a canoe launch and parking area), and paddle down the Sacandaga River until you reach the mouth of the Kunjamuk. For a shorter trip, launch directly in the bay, just off of Route 30 before you reach Speculator when driving from the south. The Sacandaga portion of the paddle is especially interesting. The river channel is wide, affording the chance to see a variety of wildlife from deer to otter.

Once you reach Kunjamuk Bay, look for the mouth of the river on the northwestern corner of the widest portion of the bay. It isn't difficult to find, but there is usually a low beaver dam or two blocking the way in. After entering the Kunjamuk you'll encounter countless twists and turns, some of which go around almost in a complete circle. The channel will usually demand one or two short carries around fallen logs. A wooden footbridge about 1.5 miles up the river offers an interesting side trip. Look for a cave along the river--in the saddle between Rift Hill and Cave Hill--a short hike up the eastern side of the trail. You can also continue downstream along the Sacandaga River from Kunjamuk Bay, through Duck Bay and downstream for a mile and a half. Accommodations and meals can be found in Speculator, and three state-run campgrounds exist in Piseco Lake, located along Route 8.

Upper West Branch Sacandaga River

Also fairly close to the Capital District is another Adirondack flatwater section that makes a fantastic day or overnight trip: the Upper West Branch of the Sacandaga. The launch site for this stream is where Route 10 crosses it just north of Arietta. Canoes can be launched on both sides of the stream, and limited parking is available. From the launch site, a fairly short paddle upstream takes you to a channel leading into Good Luck Lake. The river trip into Good Luck Lake makes a great afternoon or morning trip.

Going downstream, you'll come to a point where the river bends to the left at a big pool. Look for a channel on the right side of the pool--just wide enough to get a canoe through--that leads to Chub Lake. If you continue farther downstream on the Upper West Branch, you'll find Trout Lake, which can be reached via a channel entering the river. The end of the journey on the Upper West Branch is about seven miles from the launch site where the river drops into an impassible gorge at Shaker Place. For an overnight trip, campsites are located along the three lakes.

Saranac Lakes Chain

Another Adirondack classic is the Saranac Lakes Chain. It is possible to canoe more than 24 miles along this beautiful group of lakes, starting at Saranac Inn along Upper Saranac Lake and ending at the Village of Saranac Lake. And if your timing is right, you might even catch Joe Hackett, owner of Tahawus Guiding Service, taking one of his 30-foot war canoes out for a test drive.

Starting at Saranac Inn along Upper Saranac Lake, look for a boat launch on Back Bay. Depending on the weather and wind, there is a lot to see in the Upper Lake. As you pass through Markham and Moss Rock Points you'll find four islands in the northern part of the Upper Lake, and continuing southward you will also pass Buck Island. Campsites exist on Green and Buck islands, as well as on the bigger points between these two islands. After passing Buck Island, you'll also find a state lean-to on Saginaw Bay. Two launch sites exist at the southern basin of Upper Saranac Lake, one at Indian Carry and the other on Huckleberry Bay. The Indian Carry site is accessible by vehicle, and creates an option for a shorter trip. By using Bartlett Carry you can bypass the rapids and head to a canoe launch on Middle Saranac Lake.

Campsites exist on the larger islands of Middle Saranac Lake as well, particularly at the northeastern portion of the lake. In addition to paddling through the middle lake in the chain, a side trip possibility exists if you pass through Hungry Bay to the north. This leads to a small flow going into Weller and Little Weller ponds. Campsites are available along the shoreline of Hungry Bay and on the islands and shoreline of Weller Pond. After paddling through Middle Saranac Lake, look for a mile-long section of the Saranac River that leads to Lower Saranac Lake. A set of locks on the river allows boats to pass through. Canoes either have to pass through the locks or carry around them. Lower Saranac Lake has a number of islands and campsites, and state lean-to's can be found on Norway Point and Eagle Island. Paddlers can also pass through First Pond and take out and camp at the Saranac Lakes Fishing Access Site on Route 3.

Adirondack Facts Several information sources exist for these and other Adirondack canoe routes. Computer users should check the Adirondacks website (www.adk.com), maintained by the Adirondack Regional Tourism Council. This site features canoe route descriptions, printable locator maps, and information on guides, lodging and camping. You can also reach the Tourism Council by calling (518) 846-8016. Ask for a copy of the Adirondack Waterways booklet, which contains all the information needed for the area, from paddling events to outfitting services. For information on paddling in Franklin County, call the Franklin County Tourism Office at (518) 483-2900 (ask for a copy of the Canoe Franklin County map). For paddling in Hamilton County, information is available from the Hamilton County Tourism Office at (800) 648-5239. St. Lawrence County information is available by calling the St. Lawrence County Chamber of Commerce at (315) 386-4000. Another good source of information is the NYSDEC Region 5 Office in Ray Brook, which has brochures on Adirondack canoe routes, as well as state campground information.

Bog River Flow

Yet another great Adirondack paddle is the Bog River Flow. Starting at the launch on the lower dam at Lows Lake, from the gravel road off of Rte. 421 to the South of Horseshoe Lake, the Bog River Flow offers seven miles of flatwater paddling, with the possibility of an extended trip going all the way to Inlet. Navigation of this waterway was made possible by the construction of two dams in 1903.

From the lower dam it is a three-mile paddle to reach Hitchens Pond and the Upper Dam. A nice day trip can be had by paddling to Hitchens Pond and back. After a short carry at the upper dam, look for a beautiful four-mile waterway, with several designated campsites, leading to Lows Lake. An extensive marsh habitat exists along the lake's southern shore making it a great spot to view wetland wildlife. With 39 designated campsites available at Lows Lake, camping is available on a first come, first serve basis. All of the campsites along Pole, Gooseneck and Frying Pan islands are reserved for Boy Scouts during June, July and August. Be careful to camp only in designated sites--much of the land along the lake's eastern half is privately owned. Two campsites, one at Boone's Landing and the other at Virgin Timber Landing, require a permit. If you don't mind an extended carry (about 2.5 miles), it is possible to reach the Oswegatchie River from Lows Lake and extend the trip an additional 18 miles to Inlet. The carry is broken up midway with a short paddle through Big Deer Pond. This region is one of the canoe areas in the Adirondacks where motorized boats are prohibited. While paddlers do not have to contend with power boats, however, they do have to deal with rough weather on Lows Lake. In general, the northern shoreline is more protected and will offer a smoother passage. To stay off of the main body of the lake, use the short carry route between campsites 10 and 11, and the crossing at the causeway west of site 12.

St. Regis Lakes Loop

A final Adirondack canoeing classic is the St. Regis Lakes Loop, a route traveling through three lakes that connect by channels, with a short half-mile carry. This route passes through Lower St. Regis Lake, Spitfire Lake and Upper St. Regis Lake.

To travel this route, carry to the North Bay of the Upper Lake from the dirt road off of Keese Mills Road. The trip takes you through the Upper Lake, past Ward and Birch islands and into the channel leading to Spitfire Lake, located on the northern shore of Upper St. Regis Lake . The channel to Lower St. Regis Lake is located on the northeastern corner of Spitfire Lake. After going through the inlet channel, paddle along the western shore of Lower St. Regis Lake until you reach the outlet channel. Here you will have looped around to within a half mile of the starting point. The entire route through these lakes is 6.4 miles and can be done in a day if you start early. One of the best things about the St. Regis trip is you pass some of the great camps of the Adirondacks, including Camp Topridge built by the Post family, located on the northwest end of the Upper Lake.