10 Kid-Tested Rivers

Homebound paddlers with babies take heart: just because you've procreated doesn't mean you have to hang up your paddle. Providing you have the skill, desire and diapers, there are plenty of places to paddle where you can still get your feet wet with the family--and you won't have to worry about finding a babysitter.

My 9-month-old son, Zachary, completely absorbed in the sandy bank of the lower Green River, pays no attention to cigar-chewing Wild Bill. Kneeling nearby, Bill explains the fine points of using the portable toilet he has rented us. Bill works for Tex's Riverways of Moab, Utah, which we hired to shuttle us to the put-in, and to pick us up in a jet boat at the take-out 115 miles downstream where the Green meets the Colorado River. The required toilet will ride near my feet as we canoe down water administered by Canyonlands National Park and the Bureau of Land Reclamation. Emblazoned in orange on the side of the stainless steel toilet box are three square letters: "TEX." So Tex becomes the fourth passenger in our canoe. Without regard for "Tex," Zach will continue to deposit his waste products in his diapers.

This trip is for us, mom and dad. But as Zach's first extended wilderness journey, it is especially for him. I believe a great many of those things that will help form him into the finest man will come from visiting wild, untrammeled spaces. We started with day trips, and then overnighters, before progressing to shove off on a long trip. No parents, our shuttle driver says, have ever taken someone as young as Zachary on the lower Green. But we are comfortable here, and he will be too, because we are. Back home in the mountains of Colorado one of us cares for him constantly. Here on the river both of us will provide care. If there is a risk, I think it is only that he could grow up without the experience of wilderness.

We shove off, Bill waves his cigar, and the river, flowing peacefully, carries us around the first meandering bend. Leaning over the gunwale, Zachary trails his tiny fingers in the brown water, lifting his hand to watch in fascination as drops fall back into the river. With plans for hours of paddling or days of paddling, the basic care of kids in canoes doesn't change. His bright red personal flotation device is tethered to his mom's PFD by three feet of yellow nylon rope. If he somehow manages to plop over the side, he won't plop far.

I chose the Green in the low-water month of October because of its gentle nature and mild climate. In later summer and early fall the heat rises tremendously. But, I wondered, how would Zach take to hours in a small slim space? Would he attempt to abandon ship? Would he cry for the shoreline? I cut and shaped a foamlite pad to soften the bottom of the canoe, and he crawls around in the bow, in front of his mom, or hangs over the side, or sits and watches the easy flight of great blue herons. He likes it just fine.

Behind mom sits the cooler containing a block of ice and food. She can reach it easily for a Zach-snack. We have made no special dietary accommodations for the river. Zach eats what he always eats: crackers and yogurt and small jars of mushy substances that vary only in color. To combat dehydration, the cooler contains diluted Gatorade, and a sippy cup is always tied to Zach's PFD. Behind the cooler sit two small mounds, plastic garbage bags within plastic garbage bags, the one holding clean diapers increasingly dwarfed by the one that carries dirty diapers. By the end of the trip the dirty diapers will number 40, taking up surprisingly little space in the canoe. In front of and behind me, the disgustingly proud dad, I've crammed the tent and sleeping bags and clothes and food, all stuffed into waterproof drybags.

Even with fall beginning to paint the cottonwoods gold, the sun burns. So Zach wears his wide-brimmed red hat--a soft, snug-fitting hat with straps that tie under his chin. He wears long-sleeved, long-legged, lightweight cotton suits during the heat of the day, and sunscreen, SPF 30, on the back of his hands and on his ears and the lower part of his face. I have C-clamped a black umbrella to the bow of the canoe where, curled on the pad, he takes his morning and afternoon naps in shade. We fear sunburn more than an unexpected dip.

Where the lower Green is not lined with vertical stone walls, the tamarisks and willows grow impenetrably dense. Easy landing spots are few and far between on the high muddy banks, and our campsites rest on sandbars that jut out from river bends or on white sand islands. Zachary, who scrambles on all fours with amazing speed, demands constant attention when we are on shore. In order to set the tent and kitchen with maximum peace of mind, we empty the canoe each evening and drag it well onto the sand. With a collection of his favorite toys, Zach usually plays in the Tripper long enough for about half the work to be done.

We, the parents, have chosen sleeping bags that zip together. In this case the whole is greater than the sum of the parts, and Zach sleeps nestled between us, sharing pleasant heat through the chilly nights. He sleeps wrapped in a soft pile blanket wearing a pile suit and a pile cap and pile socks. He wears a pile jacket and pile bib overalls during the cold early and late parts of the day. The synthetic material holds in body heat well and dries quickly after it gets damp, which it does often, the result of Zach's love of splashing in anything wet. Our morning and evening food cooks on a small backpacking stove that burns white gas. By mid-trip Zach has begun to smell more like sand than baby, and the pot on the stove heats bath water prior to dinner. The hot water, tempered by the addition of river water, goes into a five-gallon plastic bucket which serves not only as camp stool and dry storage but also as bathtub.

I know, as I watch his gaiety in the bath, he will not consciously remember the Green River. I believe, though, that something of the peace and splendor has taken up residence in his subconscious. How much of who he will become was there when he was born? How much develops under the influence of how we raise him? I can't answer those questions. But I am confident that nature's way is perfect.

The morning of the last day, after a short paddle, we wait at the confluence for the pre-arranged ride up the Colorado River. Zachary sits beside me in the shade of the umbrella, chanting "da da" in between nibbles off a sandy cracker. I can't honestly say it has all been easy, this first trip with Zach, but I can say it has been rich with irresistible marvels, part natural, part human. And I know that this little person next to me, growing and learning, will be better off because of it. Putting a final few words in our journal, I begin plans for our next adventure.

10 Kid-Tested Rivers

The Green flows first through high desert administered by the Bureau of Land Management, and later through the utterly magnificent, sandstone depths of Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons within Canyonlands National Park. Many dry side-canyons will entice you to explore their mysterious depths on foot. Anasazi ruins, sometimes perched magically on vertical rock walls, sometimes protected by prominent overhangs, are often visible from the river. Coyotes, deer, and desert bighorn sheep come to the water's edge to drink. From the town of Green River, Utah, you can paddle 23 kid-friendly miles to a take-out at Ruby Ranch, or 68 miles to a take-out at Mineral Bottom. You can put in at Crystal Geyser and avoid the town and the first five miles of river. No permits are required above Mineral Bottom. The river flows approximately 52 miles from Mineral Bottom to its confluence with the Colorado, through the Park where a permit is required (cost $10). Canoe rentals and shuttles are available in Moab. For more information contact: Bureau of Land Management, San Rafael Resource Area, 900 North 700 East, Price, UT 84501, (801) 637-4584; or Canyonlands National Park, 2282 SW Resource Blvd., Moab, UT 84532, (801) 259-5277.

Suwannee River, Georgia and Florida

Out of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, past moss-laden cypresses and tupelos, sometimes in the shadow of overhanging limestone, the blackwater of the Suwannee River flows easily for 240 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. Below Ellaville, Fla., the river widens and slows past buildings and bridges, losing some of its Old South quiet charm. But it's the first 35 undeveloped miles or so that you and your children should see, from Fargo, Ga., to Big Shoals, just above White Springs, Fla. There's a take-out at Big Shoals before the river drops over Florida's most dramatic version of whitewater. If you want to add another half-day to the trip, walk from the take-out down to the shoals for a look-see. You might decide you're competent to make the run, or you can portage approximately 200 yards around the drop. White sandy spits, with room for kids to run, offer fine camping on the upper river. Avoid camping where dirt roads, indications of private land, approach the river. Go in October or early November when the heat and humidity has dwindled and the bug swarms have thinned. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: Florida Department of Natural Resources, Office of Greenways and Trails, 325 John Knox Road, Bldg. 500, Tallahassee, FL 32303-4124; (904) 488-3701.

Upper Missouri River, Montana

The wild open plains of central Montana break and fall away to the lonely Upper Missouri River, the 1805 route of Lewis and Clark--and not much has changed on this section of the river since then. And if Sacagawea made the trip in those early times with her newborn son, it's a sure bet you can do the same with a modern-day toddler.

From Fort Benton to the Fred Robinson Bridge on US 191, just inside the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, you'll find 150 kid-friendly miles. The current, running between 3-4 mph, could carry you the distance in five easy days. You'll pass bottoms thick with cottonwoods, sandstone cliffs rising vertically from the water, and natural rock sculptures before you enter the Montana "badlands" where erosion has carved a three-dimensional tapestry. Keep your eyes peeled for elk, mule and white-tailed deer, coyotes, and pronghorn antelopes. Campsites abound along the shores. Early September provides the crispness and solitude of fall, but snow often falls by early October. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: Bureau of Land Management, River Manager, Airport Road, Lewiston, MT 59457; (406) 538-7461.

Niobrara River, Nebraska

Across northern Nebraska, dispelling the myth that this state lies flat and uninteresting, the Niobrara River runs through a valley several hundred feet deep in places. Near the river you'll find a unique meeting of three vast forests: Rocky Mountain, Eastern and Great Northern. Ponderosa pines grow near red cedars which grow near paper birches. Above the valley, grass-covered sand dunes roll away for thousands of square miles--the Sandhills of Nebraska. In three unhurried days you can paddle the 76 miles of the Niobrara designated Wild and Scenic. From the town of Valentine, Neb., after approximately five miles, you'll enter the Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge. You won't see them from your canoe, but if you have time, stop and take the kids on a search for bison, elk and a herd of Texas longhorn cattle. About 11 miles from the put-in you can camp at Smith Falls State Park and see the state's tallest waterfall. Campgrounds along the river are often privately owned, and a fee is charged. After 32 miles (where you can take-out) the bluffs grow less dramatic but the river flows gently on. Late summer and early fall, especially on weekdays, offer cooler temperatures and less traffic. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: Valentine Visitors Center, (800) 658-4024.

Buffalo River, Arkansas

Protected as our first National River, the Buffalo splashes through a steep-walled Ozark Mountains canyon for its first 25 twisting miles. Below the put-in at the town of Pruitt, the Buffalo stretches 100 free-flowing miles beneath picturesque ledges and limestone bluffs that lift at times more than 300 feet above the flat water. The Buffalo ranks as one of the most pristine waterways left in the U.S. One of your most difficult decisions will be which lovely wooded or gravel bar campsite to choose each night. When the weather is warm, the swimming holes are irresistible. You and the kids can enjoy short side trips to caves, ghost towns and historic sites. After 50 miles, below Gilbert, you'll find 15 miles of popular day-tripping water. The last 40 miles of the river, to a take-out at its confluence with the White River, are seldom paddled, providing a rare opportunity to be alone with your children and migratory birds, herons and hawks, deer, otters and beavers. In spring the forest burns with colors of azalea, laurel, rosebud and rhododendron. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: Buffalo National River, P. O. Box 1173, Harrison, AR 72602; (501) 741-5443.

Namekagon River, Wisconsin

From its beginning near Cable in northwestern Wisconsin to its confluence with the Saint Croix River, the Namekagon runs for about 98 clean, clear miles, a tributary of and included in the Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway. Three short portages around dams are necessary to complete the entire Namekagon River, but numerous put-ins below the dams allow you to paddle portage-free. The abundance of put-ins gives you the chance to tailor your trip to your time schedule. This river will prove spicy for novices. You'll find several Class I rapids and a few narrow chutes. But with a depth averaging two to three feet and a width seldom extending beyond 50 feet, the Namekagon offers excellent family paddling if you have some experience in easy rapids. Much of the river provides quiet water running through swampy areas or beneath sandy banks topped with birch, oak and pine. Most of the shoreline lies under the administration of the National Park Service, and campsites are plentiful. Eagles and herons, deer and smaller mammals are commonly seen along the river, and black bears have been known to raid food caches. From late May to early September the river can be run comfortably; the rest of the year tends to be chilly. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: National Park Service, P. O. Box 100, Trego, WI 54888; (715) 635-8346.

Neches River, Texas

Slow-moving, without rapids or obstacles, the Neches River meanders across the forests and meadows of eastern Texas and through Big Thicket National Preserve. The placid water eases down bayou corridors, beneath mixed cypress, hardwoods and pines. With many put-in options, you can plan a trip from one to seven days, camping with your young ones on sandbars. Early spring offers pleasant weather and days without the bother of mosquitoes and biting flies. Fall and early winter, also a great time to go, bring a closure on camping in some areas due to hunting traffic. Canoe rentals are available. Backcountry camping permits are required. For more information contact: Big Thicket National Preserve, 3785 Milan, Beaumont, TX 77701; (409) 839-2689.

Saco River, Maine

The Saco River, as it leaves New Hampshire and crosses southern Maine to the Atlantic Coast, offers extraordinary opportunities of kid-tested paddling. One of New England's cleanest waterways, the Saco's typically sandy bottom is an invitation to swim in summer. Tall trees shade numerous sandbar campsites. An abundance of put-ins and take-outs allow you to plan a trip as short as four miles or as long as 70. Twenty miles of river from Swans Falls, near Fryeburg, to the Brownfield Bridge on State Route 160 attracts the most paddlers, and summer weekends and holidays can be downright crowded. Brownfield Bridge to Hiram, a distance of about 14 miles, winds through peaceful countryside and sees medium use. From Hiram to the coast at Biddeford, the Saco provides pleasant canoeing with scenic views for another 40 miles. The light use of this section of river can be partially explained by the necessity of five short portages around dams, and the possibility of portages around a couple of rapids that can be treacherous at some water levels. Fall, colored gloriously by the changing foliage, is an excellent time to see the Saco. Canoe rentals are available. Permits are not required. For more information contact: Biddeford-Saco Chamber of Commerce, 180 Main Street, Biddeford, ME 04005; (207) 282-1567.

Yampa River, Colorado

The last major tributary of the Colorado River to remain undammed, the Yampa River flows placidly for approximately 60 miles from Craig, Colo., to Maybell, Colo., past stunning northern Colorado scenery and a paradise of wildlife that often includes deer and antelope, turkey vultures and herons. Below Maybell the river turns extremely dangerous as it enters Cross Mountain Canyon. Put in on Highway 13 where it crosses the river below Craig and you lose about nine miles of quiet water but also lose the unappealing paddle through Craig. Duffy Canyon, about 20 miles long, offers dramatic trip highlights: pastel "badland" walls sloping a thousand feet down to the greenish-brown river. Lovely campsites shaded by cottonwoods will give you and the kids a chance to stretch your legs exploring. A rapid below Juniper Hot Springs, not recommended for open canoes, demands a portage. Or you can take out above the rapid, missing the last six miles before Maybell. Low water can ruin your trip because you'll be walking more than paddling. Spring, after high water subsides, typically provides the best conditions. Canoe rentals are available. No permits are required. For more information contact: Bureau of Land Management, Little Snake Resource Area, 1280 Industrial Avenue, Craig, CO 81625; (970) 824-4441.

Colorado River, California and Arizona

Famous for some of the most spectacular scenery and whitewater in the world, the Colorado River runs quiet and smooth near its end where it forms the California/Arizona boundary. From a put-in at Moabi Regional Park, Calif., the river enters Havasu National Wildlife Refuge and Topock Gorge, approximately 18 miles of serene and strikingly beautiful paddling. At Devil's Elbow red rock walls soar hundreds of feet higher than the blue-green water. Picture Rock stands covered with numerous Indian petroglyphs, designs and figures of unknown meaning chiseled into the very stone. Tell the kids to watch for desert bighorn sheep, often caught silently standing far above the canoes. Numerous species of birds call this area home, and thousands of migratory birds may be seen from October to May. You can camp at Moabi Park for a fee, and along the Arizona shoreline south of the Gorge. No camping is allowed within Topock Gorge. Canoe rentals are available. No permit is required. For more information contact: Havasu National Wildlife Refuge, 1406 Bailey Avenue, Needles, CA 92363; (619) 326-3853.