Aloha Paddlers
Eight Top Hawaiian Sea Kayak Trips
By Tom Holtey
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HAWAIIAN PADDLING HINTS
Boats:
Sit-on-top kayaks are the dominant type of craft available at local
outfitters, and they are well suited for Hawaiian paddling. The open-top
cockpit keeps you cool in the tropical breezes, lets you jump in and out to
swim or snorkel, and enables you to surf waves safely and easily. Closed-deck
touring kayaks are also available at outfitters, and lower-performance
recreational kayaks are available at resorts and beach concessions.
Outfitters:
A good outfitter will provide you with a sit-on-top or touring
kayak with hatches, a paddle, a paddle leash, PFD, knee straps (if
applicable), backrest and a dry bag. Most outfitters will pick you up at an
airport or hotel, bring you to the put-in and then pick you up at the take-
out.
What to Bring:
Bring personal gear consisting of: aquatic footwear, wide brim
hat, waterproof sunscreen, paddling clothes, mask, fins and snorkel, water
bottle, and a retainer for glasses and hat. Camping gear should be appropriate
for warm weather. Bedding can be light, but a sleeping pad is important for
some of the rockier beaches. Don't forget to bring a water purification
system. There are plenty of clear cool running streams but few of them are
safe to drink.
Info.:
Hui Wa'a Kaukahi Kayak Club, P.O. Box 11588, Honolulu HI 96826;
D.L.N.R. Dept. State Parks. P.O. Box 621, Honolulu HI 96809; Hawaii Tourism
Office, (808) 586-2550; Hawaii Visitors Bureau, (808) 923-1811. Maps of all
islands are available from the University of Hawaii Press. Another good book
for paddling Hawaii is the Lonely Planet Guidebook, 4th ed., (800) 275-8555.
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EVERYONE KNOWS
Hawaii as a premiere vacation destination. Sunny beaches, fiery
volcanoes, great waves, lush jungles, fresh leis, warm hospitality...the list
goes on and on. But the list also includes something most people might not
realize--prime paddling. Need proof? Look no further than the early Polynesians who came to the islands
more than a thousand years ago in double-hull voyaging canoes. They decided to
vacation here forever, bringing their culture with them. And Hawaii's
waters--some of the most beautiful and user-friendly in the world--are just as
rewarding for modern-day paddlers as they were for these early Polynesians.
Cool trade winds fan the islands with ocean-fresh air, the water is warm and
clear, and backdrops range from thundering waterfalls to towering cliffs
draped in tropical foliage. Combine this with the chance to snorkel coral
reefs teeming with sea life, bathe in warm lagoons under multi-colored
sunsets, and live Robinson Crusoe-style on fresh fruit and fish, and you too
might find yourself staying--and paddling--in Hawaii longer than expected.
The Na Pali coast is the most popular sea kayak destination in Hawaii. Located
on the north coast of the island of Kaua'i, it is also considered one of the
best and safest trips for beginning and intermediate paddlers. Among its
attributes are beautiful sand beaches, dramatic sea cliffs and caves, ancient
ruins, spectacular snorkeling and beach combing.
For a private trip
along the coast you'll need a permit (take our advice and apply for one
early). State Park camping permits for Ha'ena Beach Park, landing permits for
Nu'alolo Kai, and camping permits for Kalalau Valley and Miloli'i are
available from the Department of Land and Natural Resources (see phone number
below). Our recommendation? Camp at Ha'ena at the put-in your first night and
use any spare time to explore the dry and wet cave, both within walking
distance from the campground. The real fun, however, begins the next day.
While paddling from Ha'enna to Kalalau, make sure to explore the variety of
sea caves along the way. For their first night out, most kayakers camp in a
large, dry cave at Kalalau Beach, although there are plenty of forested
campsites as well. This is a great place for a layover day--hikers are
rewarded with fruit trees, waterfalls and swimming holes. On the way to your
final camp at Miloli'i, stop at Nu'alolo Kai for lunch where you can explore
ancient ruins and go snorkeling. Miloli'i is the quiet spot on the coast,
offering exquisite beach combing, a hike up a serpentine canyon and dolphins
frolicking offshore. Just beware of rocks falling off the canyon's steep
walls. The last day's paddle to the take-out at Polihale beach is usually calm
and glassy, and a great spot to use up any remaining film.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: Ha'ena State Park to Polihale State Park on the island of Kaua'i.
Length: 15 miles.
When: June to August.
Camping: Three locations.
Experience Level: Beginner to intermediate.
Outfitter: Outfitters Kaua'i (808) 742-9667.
Permits: Department of Land and Natural Resources (808) 274-3444; State Parks
Office (808) 245-4444.
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; Beaches of Kaua'i and Ni'ihau by
John Clark, and On the Na Pali Coast by Kathy Valier.
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O'ahu is the most populated of Hawaii's islands. This is not surprising as it
has some of the best beaches in the state. Even though it is largely urban,
however, the island offers superb paddling, from day trips along the coast to
overnighters with camping at road-access campgrounds. Two paddles stand out.
Although you can't camp there, the Mokulua Islands, twin islands a mile off
Lanikai beach, is a popular and easy day-trip. The islets are bird
sanctuaries, so stay on the beaches or rocky tidepool areas instead of
venturing inland. Surfing the channel between the islands is best done in
winter; snorkeling, tidepool exploration and picnicking are prime summertime
activities. Beware of the shallow coral reefs when the surf is up. Kahana Bay
Beach Park and Kahana stream is the place for those wanting that paddle-in-a-
jungle feeling. You can paddle on a calm jungle stream sprinkled with blossoms
and on the ocean all in one trip. Although activities in the area include
everything from beach combing to surfing, the most unique thing to do is
paddle a mile up Kahana stream and let the jungle work its magic. The trip is
ideal for everyone from beginners to experts, but exercise caution if rain is
eminent--the stream reaches its banks quickly.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: The island of O'ahu.
Length: Varies.
When: Year round.
Camping: Roadside.
Experience Level: Beginner to intermediate.
Outfitter: Go Bananas (808) 737-9514.
Permits: Department of Land and Natural Resources (808) 274-3444; Division of
State Parks (808) 548-7455.
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; Beaches of O'ahu by John Clark.
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The island of Moloka'i is wild and enchanting. Its north coast holds the same
allure for paddlers. Here you can kayak below towering sea cliffs--the tallest
in the world--and explore remote valleys, sea caves, islets and sea stacks.
The trip begins at Halawa valley at the eastern side of the island. The launch
is in the calm water of Halawa bay, but this is the last calm water you can
expect for the duration of the trip. Papalaua valley is the first landing. To
find this spot look for a large sea arch and paddle through it to find the
landing. There are a few tent spots in this narrow valley, and a good hike can
be had that culminates in a large swimming hole at the base of a 300-foot
waterfall. Warm rains often fall on this coast, so be prepared with a tarp to
keep dry.
The next valley you reach on the coast is Wailau, which sometimes has a
summertime settlement of people who walk in on a foot trail; followed by the
valley of Pelekunu, which makes an excellent basecamp for hiking and kayaking
the area's bays, coves and islets. Plan to spend the bulk of your time here.
From Pelekunu you have three options. One is to paddle back the way you came
if the winds are light. The next is to paddle around Kalaupapa Peninsula (this
can be long and difficult, however, as currents and waves off the tip are
challenging). If you go this route, rest in the lee of the island before
rounding the point. Once you have made it around Kalaupapa you can land on the
western shore only if you have permission in advance. Kalaupapa is still a
Hansen's disease settlement and a permit is required from the board of health.
There is no threat of contracting the disease, but access to the area is
controlled. To land, contact one of the tour guides operating trips on the
island. If you opt to paddle clear of Kalaupapa, there is no place to
land--and no fresh water--until you reach Kawa'aloa. Strong paddlers are the
only ones to make this long trip. The fishing is outstanding and the landscape
like a desert with sand dunes marching off to the foothills.
From here you paddle around 'Ilio Point to Kawakiu Nui, a small cove in
cattle country. This area is also home to the dreaded kiawe bush, whose long
sharp thorns can shred bare feet and sleeping pads. The snorkeling is great
here and you may find the sunken ruins of a boat in the cove's water. From
this bay you have only a short paddle back to civilization (the Sheraton
Moloka'i Hotel is a welcome sight for lunch or an overnight stay). If you wish
to bypass the hotel, land at Papohaku beach and complete your shuttle.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: The island of Moloka'i, from Halawa bay to Papohaku beach.
Length: Twenty to 45 miles.
When: June through August.
Camping: Plentiful locations, no permits needed.
Experience Level: Advanced to expert.
Outfitter: Go Bananas (808) 737-9514.
Permits: Dept. of Health (808) 567-6320; Molokai Mule Ride (808) 567-6088;
Father Damien Tours (808) 567-6171; Ike's Scenic Tours (808) 567-6437;
National Parks Service (808) 567-6102.
Books: Paddling Hawaii, by Audrey Sutherland; Beaches of Maui County by John
Clark.
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| The North Kohala Coast, Hawaii |
Hawaii, commonly called the Big Island, beckons tourist and Kama'aina alike
to its fiery volcanoes and great open spaces. There are also wonderful places
to paddle along vast coastlines. The North Kohala coast is beautiful and wild,
with a coastline exposed to trade winds and wind swell. Paddlers brave enough
to venture here are rewarded with a remote and lonely place scattered with
deep valleys and steep sea cliffs sculpted by rains.
Start the journey at Waipi'o Bay (you will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to
take you down into the valley). Launch in the Waipi'o river and paddle out the
river mouth (beware of strong currents and surf). From here your next stop is
Waimanu Valley. The campsites are rocky, so bring a good sleeping pad.
Paddling up Waimanu stream makes a great day trip. Portage your kayak around
the turbulent river mouth, and navigate the stream for about a mile under
towering waterfalls. Your next jump along the coast brings you to Laupahoehoe
Nui, a peninsula jutting out from a high cliff sprinkled with waterfalls. The
topography makes it accessible only from the sea. Be prepared for a surf
landing on the boulder beach. Here you will find wild goats and a banana
forest, as well as the best camping on the coast. There are shaded groves for
tents, plenty of fresh water and lots of terrain to explore. Honopue valley
offers the next place for camping as you continue your journey. The landing
here, like most of the coast, is rocky. Directly behind the beach and visible
from the water you can see terraced gardens of a deserted village. Off shore
you can paddle among a group of three islets, one of which has a hole through
the middle, giving it the name Mokupuka (meaning island hole). From here it's
a short paddle to the take-out at Keokea Beach Park. Look for a breakwater
that protects a small boat launch.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: Waipi'o to Keokea Beach Park on the Island of Hawaii.
Length: 20 miles.
When: June through August.
Camping: Three spots along the coast.
Experience Level: Advanced.
Outfitter: Aquatic Perceptions (808) 935-9997; Kona Boys Kayaks (808)
322-3600.
Permits: Waimanu State Parks (808) 961-7200.
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; Beaches of the Big Island by John
Clark.
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Located on the eastern (windward) side of Hawaii, Hilo is the Big Island's
second-largest city. Circling Hilo Bay and showcasing a mile-long black sand
beach, the town is noted for a three-mile break wall that forms a jetty
keeping shipping docks secure during high surf. The city is also the gateway
to the world's most active volcano, Kilauea, and is famous for its rain--which
waters its rainforest and fuels Hilo's abundant waterfalls. The rain, however,
shouldn't discourage kayakers from visiting. The most accessible entry for a
day paddle in the bay is Reeds Bay Beach Park, located on Banyan Drive. After
launching, head right to the Ice Pond, a small spring-fed lagoon featuring
native fish and a crystal-clear lava bottom. From there to the ship docks
you'll pass numerous fresh water inlets which can also be explored. On the
backside of the docks through a small channel is Radio Bay, home of the Trans-
Pacific sailboat fleet whose masts showcase flags of various countries. At the
beach end of the bay is a community of Hawaiian families that can answer
questions and help with directions. Lining the ocean side of Radio Bay is the
Hilo Bay break wall on Blonde Reef. Turtles and fish frequent this area, and
if the surf is running, powerful north swells can be seen breaking over the
wall. The end of the wall is the main access point for the Hilo small boat
fishing fleet. Watch for approaching vessels within 200 yards of the end.
From the wall towards the Wainaku section of Hilo is a comfortable paddle with
wind and swell to your back. A large renovated sugar mill on Ale'ale'a Point
marks the outer bounds of your paddle. From the mill heading towards Hilo, the
Wailuki Bridge marks a three-bridge paddle up the waterfall-strewn Wailuku
River (if it's raining, take care--the river can become a raging torrent
quickly). Next comes the Wailoa River, anchorage to Hilo's fishing fleet.
After returning into Hilo Bay, you'll see Coconut Island Park, an ancient site
where native women would retreat to give birth (be careful of a shallow reef
in front of the island). If you want a quick drink, pull your kayak up on the
lawn of the Naniloa Hotel, Uncle Billy's or the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel. Reeds Bay
is just around the corner and your circumnavigation is now complete.
--Bob Duerr
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: Hilo Bay
Length: 12 miles.
When: Year round (dry season: January-February).
Camping: NA
Experience Level: Beginner through advanced.
Outfitter: Planet Ocean Watersports (808) 935-7277; Rainbow Kayak Adventures
(808) 965-9011; P&P Distributors (808) 966-4999.
Permits: NA
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; Beaches of the Big Island by John
Clark
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The island of Maui is known as the Valley Isle. Haleakala dominates the
eastern half of the island and the Western Maui mountain range is on the other
side. These high mountains and valleys create strong winds that make Maui's
windsurfing famous and challenge kayakers. Early morning is the best time of
day to avoid stronger winds. La Perouse Bay, on the southern coast of the
island, can be a year-round destination, depending on surf conditions. The
A'hihi-Kina'u Natural Area Reserve, set up to protect the region's fragile
ecosystem, encompasses much of the area. Here you will find plants found no
where else in the world, schools of tropical fish and pods of dolphins in bay
encircled by 30 to 50 feet high. Access is by Makena road, at the end of the
pavement. West of the lighthouse is easy beginner and intermediate paddling
among the rock gardens, with some of the best snorkeling on the island.
Advanced kayakers can paddle east of the lighthouse to Kanaio beach for
camping (the landing can be difficult due to shore break). This is dry country
forested with thorny kiawe trees; bring water with you. Hikers can stroll the
rough King's Highway, a road built by the Hawaiian people more than 100 years
ago.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: The island of Maui, south coast La Perouse Bay.
Length: 3 miles.
When: Year round, depending on summer surf.
Camping: Kanaio
Experience Level: Beginner to advanced.
Outfitter: South Pacific Kayaks (800) 776-2326; Maui Sea Kayaking (808)
572-6299.
Permits: NA
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; The Beaches of Maui County by
John Clark.
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Maui's north coast is for paddlers looking for an extended journey. The
adventure begins in the small town of Hana and ends in the city of Kahului.
The coast, on the windward side and receiving lots of rain, is peppered with
waterfalls, offshore islets and beautiful campsites. One of these sites is
Waianapanapa State Park, a well-developed campground with road access. A
careful look at a topo map, combined with some field scouting, will reveal
plenty more camping hideaways. The weather on this coast can be wet and windy.
Early morning paddling is the easiest. Some hiking can be done, but there is
much more to do on the water, including exploring sea caves and arches. The
whole coast resembles a giant sand castle with cathedral spires, Gothic
arches, niches and dome-shaped grottos. On a small islet off Pauwela Point
there is even a spiral-shaped cove, as if a large sea shell, split in half,
washed up and partially submerged on shore. Once past Hookipa Park, famous for
its windsurfing, look for a landing spot and Lower Pa'ia Park, Baldwin Park,
Spreckelsville Beach or Kahului.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: The north coast of Maui; Hana to Kahului.
Length: 45 miles.
When: June through August.
Camping: Plentiful locations.
Experience Level: Intermediate to advanced.
Outfitter: Maui Sea Kayaking (808) 572-6299; South Pacific Kayaks (800)
776-2326.
Permits: NA
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Audrey Sutherland; The Beaches of Maui County by
John Clark.
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Lanai is the smallest of the populated islands in Hawaii. It is a small town
and has genuine indigenous charm. The relaxed pace of life on this island is a
welcome relief from the hectic urban lifestyle. The best way to paddle on
Lanai is to bring an inflatable kayak. There are no outfitters, and planes
that fly to the island are very small. It is possible to ship a kayak by barge
to Kaumalapau Harbor, but the schedule is limited. The West Coast offers the
best paddling, with put-ins and take-outs at Kaumalapau Harbor. This is a
working harbor but is not busy. >From here you will paddle north along a coast
dotted with coves, sea caves and cliffs. Snorkeling in these waters is
spectacular; dolphins often frequent the area, jumping out of the water and
spinning in mid air to entertain paddlers. The Nanoha Sea Stacks, small islets
that look like castles in the sea, make a nice lunch spot. One of them has a
shady cave complete with front and back doors, a window and a table-like rock
in the middle. Snorkeling around these islands is good, and it is a simple
paddle back to the harbor at the end of the day.
| TRIP TIDBITS |
Where: The Island of Lanai.
Length: 6 miles round trip.
When: Year round, depending on weather.
Camping: Manele Bay
Experience Level: Beginner to advanced.
Outfitter: NA
Permits: State parks
Books: Paddling Hawaii by Sutherland; The Beaches Of Maui County by John
Clark.
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