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Destinations The Potomac, A Capital River
Destinations The Potomac, A Capital River
| The Potomac, A Capital River |
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| Written by David Hart |
| Monday, 30 June 2008 08:18 |
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It's fitting that the river flowing past our nation's capital is a river of many faces. Like the politicians, lawyers and lobbyists who shape our country's future, the Potomac River is in a constant state of flux. That's why it's perfect for those who can't seem to make up their mind. Rushing whitewater? Head to the historic town of Harper's Ferry, West Virginia, or to the deep gorge just below Great Falls. Wildlife-rich tidal marshes? Plenty of them await canoeists and sea kayakers exploring the stretch from downtown Washington, D.C., to Chesapeake Bay. How about gentle currents and easy riffles? You can find them in between. The hard part is simply deciding which part of this scenic river to paddle, considering that so much of it is rich in history and breathtaking scenery, and, most of the time, few other canoeists. One of my favorite places to explore is the Accotink Bay Wildlife Refuge, bound on two sides by Fort Belvoir Military Reservation. Two small creeks, Accotink and another that hasn't been given a name by mapmakers, end their journeys through suburban Northern Virginia, and provide narrow channels leading far back into a vast spatterdock- filled tidal marsh. Wildlife is plentiful on the refuge, which was originally an ordinance testing area used by the United States Army. It was later set aside for nesting bald eagles (it's a rare day that you can't see one or two), but it's also become a haven for migrating waterfowl and wading birds in the fall. Dyke Marsh, another tidal haven for canoeists and wildlife, offers a similar escape from the subdivisions and strip malls of Northern Virginia and from the granite canyons of Washington. This maze of islands and narrow channels is owned by the National Park Service and is designated as a wildlife refuge. It offers an abundance of bird life, but because it edges up to the George Washington Memorial Parkway, used by thousands of commuters, it lacks the tranquility of some of the Potomac's more secluded tidal marshes. With a little homework, modern-day explorers can find their own private tidal marsh on the Maryland and Virginia shore, all the way to Chesapeake Bay. Some waterways have limited access, but those are often the ones offering the most privacy and best scenery. Bald eagles, as well as a host of other native wildlife, are abundant along the tidal Potomac. Look for eagles perched in trees near water but far from the steady boat traffic of the main river. If the thought of still water and the risk of getting stuck on a mud flat at low tide isn't appealing, or if you just want to try something a little faster-paced, head above Washington, D.C. A few sections here offer strong Class III rapids while flat, steadily moving water beckons less-experienced paddlers. For those looking for the extreme, there's even the Class V Great Falls. Access is plentiful thanks to the C&O Canal, which stretches 185 miles from Cumberland, Md., to Georgetown. The National Park Service owns the property between the canal and the riverbank for nearly the entire length. This public land, along with plentiful parking areas, offers quick and easy access. Float trips of varying lengths are generously scattered from D.C. to Cumberland and beyond. Mark Grimes, owner of River Riders, Inc., says the sheer size of the Potomac is another reason crowds are never a problem. "The river's over 300 yards wide in some areas, so there's plenty of room for everyone." Grimes has operated his business, based in Harpers Ferry, since 1980, and has seen the popularity of the upper Potomac rise. "I started out guiding fishermen from canoes," he says. "Then I started renting canoes and running shuttles, but kayaking has grown in popularity so much, we started renting them, also." Grimes adds that there isn't much whitewater bigger than Class III, and during the summer open canoes can handle just about all of it. In the spring, however, higher water can keep the rapids interesting. "You wouldn't want to run some sections of the Potomac in anything but a whitewater canoe or a kayak," he says. I couldn't pick a favorite stretch of river because they're all postcard-perfect. Even the sections close to Washington offer a sense of tranquility, despite their proximity to millions of residents. On the Virginia side, several jurisdictions own property designated as parkland for much of the river's length, making development scarce. The parkland, combined with occasional floods, keep houses far from the river and out of sight. Only in a few areas near Washington are multi-million dollar homes visible on high cliffs over the river, but even these are screened by towering oaks, sycamores and boxelders. Float-trippers can find plenty of good sections near camping areas well above Great Falls. The Park Service has established dozens of primitive campsites for those who hike and bike the C&O Canal towpath. These free areas are spaced about every five or six miles from Cumberland downriver to Swain's Lock, 16 miles above Georgetown. And because they are located close to or right on the river, access is easy for canoeists. Hiker-biker campsites, as the Park Service calls them, have chemical toilets, water pumps, trash cans and fire grills and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Overnighters should make camp early and explore the C&O Canal, which is rarely more than a hundred yards from the river's edge. Some sections have water and canoeists are welcome to paddle it, but others have long since been drained. The big stone-walled and wooden-gated locks offer interesting insights into life in the mid-1800s. The Potomac may seem like it offers too many options, but that's no problem - spend a day anywhere on this river, and you'll have made the right choice. Maps Alexandria Drafting Company (800-232-6277) sells charts of the tidal Potomac River. The National Park Service (301-739-4200) offers free maps of the upper section of the river, but they don't show access points on the Virginia shore or private ramps on the Maryland side. The best maps of the upper Potomac can be purchased through the Interstate Commission of the Potomac River Basin for $6. Call (301) 984-1908. Canoe RentalsRiver Riders, Inc., Harper's Ferry, WV, (304) 535-2663; Swain's Lock, Potomac, MD, (301) 299-9006; Belle Haven Marina, Alexandria, VA, (703) 768-0018, Fletcher's Boat House, Washington, D.C., (202) 244-0461. Clubs & companies Sponsoring organized trips Potomac River Smallmouth Club. (Fishing excursions) Contact Jack Cook, (703) 971-2661; Canoe Cruisers Association, (301) 656-2586; Atlantic Canoe and Kayak Company, (703) 780-0066. River Conditions (703) 260-0305 Camping Information National Park Service C&O Canal Headquarters, (301) 739-4200. Originally Published, Paddler March-April 2000 |
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