Paddles on the Prairie

For most canoeists headed to the popular waters of western Montana from the Midwest or eastern states, the plains of Montana pass like a bad dream. Flat, with little or no appearance of water navigable to a child's sailboat, let alone a canoe, the prairielands of the Treasure State are often viewed as something to be endured enroute to a sparkling mountain paradise.

If the typical canoeists knew what Montana has to offer east of its continental divide, however, they might not be so hasty on the trek west. From mid-May to early July, prairie lakes are busy with numerous waterfowl species incubating eggs and rearing young. The earth also erupts, with lush grasses and blooming wildflowers forming a tapestry that rivals the alpine meadows of the mountains. Badgers, weasels, antelope and ground squirrels are also populating the prairie, capping a celebration of spring with the antics of their furry offspring.

For the paddler, some of the best places to enjoy the beauty of eastern Montana's "Land Less Traveled" lie in the northeastern and north-central portions of the state. And believe me, "Less Traveled" is an understatement. On a long weekend excursion to Medicine and Bowdoin Lakes last June, my partner and I never saw another craft on the water. In early July, my family joined a number of friends for a lazy float on the historic "White Cliffs" section of the Missouri River that so captivated the imagination of Meriwether Lewis. Although we occasionally saw other paddlers during the daytime, we never camped within sight of another party on the four-day outing.

Although there are numerous other places to explore, Medicine Lake, Bowdoin Lake and the Fort Peck Reservoir/Missouri River area are ideal places to begin. These destinations boast exceptional scenery, are readily accessible from Montana highways and can be navigated by the novice and expert alike.

Medicine Lake

The home of Montana's easternmost wilderness area, Medicine Lake lies in the extreme northeastern corner of the state. There's only one route in to the lake, unless you make a circuitous trip into Saskatchewan or northern North Dakota and then drop south. From stateside, the lake is most often reached by traveling north from Culbertson (on US 2) via Highway 16. At 8,700 acres, there's no shortage of paddling opportunities here. The lake itself and an additional 2,660 acres form the Medicine Lake Wilderness Area, established by congress in 1976. In addition to protecting the area's wildlife and grassland habitat from development, the wilderness designation is significant for paddlers in another way—no motorboats, no wakes, no noise.

Upon reaching the lake, the first logical stop is at the refuge headquarters. In addition to providing information regarding possible closures, refuge staff can also provide a checklist of birds and possible launch sites. Although the lake does not have specifically designated launch sites, numerous fishing access trails provide handy routes to the water and a canoe can easily be launched from these sites. If you're looking for suggestions for a day trip, consider the following itinerary: After putting in at one of the access sites on the north side of the lake, between refuge headquarters and Gopher Point, paddle south toward Young's Island. After skirting Young's, follow the south shoreline to South Bay and Big Island. Home to one of the largest nesting colonies of pelicans in the U. S., Big Island is anything but quiet. From Big Island, glide into Tax Bay, where the southeast shore is covered in the Sand Hills.

Although it's one of the most appealing destinations in northeastern Montana, visitor facilities in the Medicine Lake area are limited. There are no established campgrounds but camping is usually available in the town of Medicine Lake. Contact refuge headquarters for information (406) 789-2305. Motels can be found in Culbertson, 24 miles south of the lake.

Bowdoin Lake

Like Medicine Lake, Bowdoin Lake is an integral part of a National Wildlife Refuge. If you don't like birds, don't visit Bowdoin. At least 263 different species have been recorded here, one of the most productive nesting areas in northern Montana. To reach Bowdoin, drive east of Malta for about a mile (on US 2) until you see the sign for the wildlife refuge. Exit US 2 at the sign and you'll be on old US 2. Follow this route for about six miles to the refuge. Because the lake is managed for wildlife, certain areas of the refuge may be closed to shelter nesting waterfowl. Prior to visiting, it's wise to call the refuge about closure areas and dates (406) 654-2863.

Geologists hypothesize that Bowdoin Lake was a horseshoe bend on the Missouri River in preglacial times and that huge sheets of ice forced the river from the Bowdoin region to its current location, roughly 50 miles south of the refuge. A quick glance at a map of the lake lends credibility to geological theory. The 4,000-acre lake is roughly shaped like a northern-bending horseshoe and it takes little imagination to see the lake as a wide, shallow bend in the river.

Fort Peck Reservoir/Missouri River

Of all the waters that attract paddlers to eastern Montana, the Missouri River holds the most appeal. In addition to the scenic beauty of the river and its intriguing history, there's excellent fishing, especially on the river's Fort Peck Reservoir, where anglers find abundant walleye and northern pike along with a host of other species.

To explore the reservoir from a canoe, simply find a launch site and paddle away. There's about a dozen established boat ramps around this 135-mile long puddle. Two of my favorites are The Pines Recreation Area on the north side of the reservoir and Hell Creek State Park on the south side. Both sites have camping facilities and can be accessed in any type of vehicle. No matter where you put in, don't forget—Fort Peck is big, deep and susceptible to violent winds. Paddle smart and don't take chances.

If you can't tell a pike from a poodle and have no interest in fishing, don't despair. The Missouri River has plenty to offer the non-angler. Just over 100 miles upstream from the backwaters of Fort Peck winds the White Cliffs portion of the Missouri River. For history and geology buffs, this stretch of the Missouri is the river's crown jewel. Meriwether Lewis wrote extensively about the White Cliffs in his journal and the multi-colored sandstone outcroppings have fascinated historians and scientists ever since.

To view and explore Lewis' White Cliffs, plan a three- to four-day excursion from the Coal Banks Landing to Judith Landing. To reach Coal Banks, drive Highway 87 about 10 miles southwest of Big Sandy and watch for the signs. Judith Landing is a little over 50 miles downstream, about 20 miles northeast of Winifred, via Route 236. From Coal Banks to Judith Landing, the Missouri still looks much like it did to the wide-eyed Lewis. Despite the herds of domestic cattle that water at the river and the presence of a few ranch buildings, this stretch of the Missouri has a big, uncivilized feel to it that's hard to come by—even in Montana.

Although dozens of the sandstone formations of the White Cliffs are worthy of a pull-out and exploration, two are especially alluring: the pillars of the Eye of the Needle and the Hole in the Wall. Unfortunately, vandals toppled the upper portion of the needle's eye (a delicate sandstone arch) several years ago. However, the supporting pillars are still intact and worth the scramble to find them. Further downstream, the Hole in the Wall is, well, a hole...in an imposing cliff wall on a bluff above the river. It, too, can be viewed firsthand by hiking from the river. If you explore either of these landmarks or any of the other rock formations, beware. There are as many rattlesnakes today as there were when Lewis navigated the river nearly 200 years ago.

Whether it's the Hole in the Wall on the Missouri, birdwatching at Bowdoin, or hiking on the Sand Hills of Medicine Lake, eastern Montana has plenty to offer the enterprising paddler. So don't rush past to Yellowstone, there's plenty of beauty before you get there.

Originally Published, Paddler May-June 2000