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Many buyers in the touring market find themselves choosing between a sea kayak and a canoe. While both have their strong points, don't assume that a canoe automatically holds more gear. It may not. Sea kayaks are every bit as efficient and offer one thing most canoes don't: a covering over the deck offering protection from the elements. They are the perfect craft for those looking to spend evenings on the lake, weekends touring to an overnight camp, or weeks paddling deep into the wilderness. They are fast, efficient, and fun to paddle. Although most touring kayaks now come with water-tight storage hatches, when shopping don't forget to ask about such other accessories as sails and rudders. Take a look at the whole package to decide what's best for you.

Features & Specifications

Type: Primary purpose or use of the model. Some models are highly specialized; however, in some cases this is only a general recommendation. The following codes designate the primary purpose of a model: TO=touring (either ocean or lake); REC=recreational and casual use; EX=expedition and extended use; CR=cruising; TR=tripping (DT=day tripping); AP=all purpose touring kayak; SC=sport combination; RC=racing/competition; F=folding; SF=skin-on-frame; T=tandem, S=solo.

length(l) & Beam (W): Length/width ratio is a good indication of potential speed, but because hull design is so important, length becomes less important when traveling at slower speeds. Just make sure the boat you buy is a size you can handle. In beginner boats, wider means more stable. Deep V hull shapes and round hulls feel tippy, but as you develop balance and skills these hull shapes become preferable for intermediate and advanced paddlers. Wide, flat-bottomed hulls offer a great feeling of initial stability, but tend to slam in rough conditions.

material; Refer back to the canoe and whitewater kayak introductions for a more complete description of materials. As with those boats, for the most part, sea kayak materials are broken down into composite, plastic, wood and skin-on-frame. Fiberglass and Kevlar boats are lighter and faster but not as durable as plastic in the long term. Exercise care loading and unloading them and avoid scraping boats against rocks when paddling and landing. Plastic boats are heavier and also tend to scratch. If and when it comes time to repair your boat, remember that fiberglass repair is relatively easy; plastic requires cumbersome welding. As with whitewater kayaks, plastic is divided into crosslinked and linear polyethylene, both used in rotomolding. A few companies utilize high molecular weight extruded polyethylene (HTP), used in blowmolding. Wood sea kayaks are beautiful creations, much like owning a vintage automobile. They are either strip-built or made of plywood, and may be covered with fiberglass or epoxy. Folding boats are highly specialized and many are state of the art. Frames are made with wood, plastics or metal, and are either shock-corded like a tent or feature delicate fittings. They are generally covered with a skin made from hypalon, Cordura, nylon or canvas.

Codes for materials are: PE=polyethylene (LPE=linear polyethylene, SLP=super linear polyethylene, CPE=crosslinked polyethylene); HTP=high molecular weight extruded polyethylene; PP=polypropylene; PL=proprietary composite lay-up, CP=composite lay-up; FRP=fiber-reinforced plastic; KV=Kevlar, FG=fiberglass, CB=carbon; WF=wood frame; SF=skin on frame; WC=wood/canvas; W (WO)=wood; WE=wood/epoxy.

cockpit: Cockpit length and width won't explain whether a boat will be a good fit or not. You'll probably have to custom outfit the boat, making it more comfortable, a better performer and more fun to paddle. For advanced paddlers in exposed conditions, outfitting is just as important as in whitewater kayaks.

recommended burden: The target weight range the manufacturer has selected for a boat to achieve optimum performance. This is not necessarily a maximum capacity—it is a load rating that varies by manufacturer and should be considered a reference tool only.

Folding or hardshell: If you plan on traveling, and if this traveling involves flying, a folding kayak could be your best bet. Some hardshell kayaks exist that break down into two, three and four pieces; and folding kayaks pack up into two duffel bags, one for the frame and one for the material that goes over it. Both options let you pack your boat as luggage. You don't lose much in handling, and storage and transport become much easier. Folding and breakdown kayaks are generally more expensive than hardshells, but you don't give up much in performance and they work great in most conditions.

rudders: Tandem kayaks gen-erally come with a rudder system, controlled by the sternsman. You may want to add a rudder if it isn't included in the package. Tandem boats are challenging to turn even with the best sweep strokes. Rudders help solos stay on course and aid somewhat in turning, but they also cut into hull speed. A well-executed sweep stroke with a lean is more effective for singles than for tandems. Skegs—which help hold a boat's course in rough conditions—are another option to enhance your boat's tracking.

storage hatches: Hatches are necessary to access storage space that is sealed off by a bulkhead, an option on most commercial models. Dry bags and flotation/storage bags work well and for some people are easier to access while paddling. In addition to storage, bulkheads provide buoyancy and displacement otherwise provided by flotation bags fore and aft. Some manufacturers are adding handy "day hatches" that let you store items right behind the cockpit. Deck storage is also important for pumps or a paddle float–just make sure all items kept on deck are secure.

msrp: Manufacturer's suggested retail price.

Go to the Touring Kayaks Product Sheet (90K)

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